What Is Polyurethane-62?
Polyurethane-62 is a synthetic copolymer created by linking together hexamethylene diisocyanate, PEG-200, Methyl Gluceth-10 and Trideceth-6 and then finishing the chain with a fatty alcohol that has 16 to 20 carbon atoms. This blend gives the molecule both water-loving and oil-loving parts so it can interact well with many cosmetic ingredients.
Polyurethanes were first explored in the 1940s for industrial coatings. By the late 1990s chemists began tailoring smaller polyurethane chains for personal care, aiming for flexible films that feel comfortable on skin. Polyurethane-62 grew out of that work as formulators looked for a binder that could also fine-tune texture without feeling heavy.
The polymer is made through a controlled step-growth reaction where the diisocyanate reacts with the polyether and glucose-derived segments. After reaching the desired chain length, a long-chain fatty alcohol is added to cap the ends, locking in performance and boosting mildness.
You will usually find Polyurethane-62 in leave-on products that need a light yet lasting film such as facial moisturizers, anti-aging serums, sheet masks, long-wear foundations, hair styling creams and waterproof sunscreens. It is also common in eye gels and body lotions that aim for a smooth non-greasy finish.
Polyurethane-62’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Polyurethane-62 for two main technical reasons that translate into visible benefits for the user.
- Binding: Acts like a gentle glue that keeps pigments, sunscreens or active ingredients evenly stuck to skin or hair so color stays true and protection lasts longer even in humid or sweaty conditions.
- Viscosity controlling: Helps set the overall thickness of a formula giving creams a silky cushion or gels a light bouncy feel while preventing separation during shelf life.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-62
Polyurethane-62 is generally well tolerated by all major skin types. Its lightweight film helps hold moisture without creating a greasy seal so dry and normal skins appreciate the added cushioning while oily and combination skins usually find it does not feel heavy or clogging. Sensitive skin also tends to do well because the polymer has a low irritation profile though anyone with a known allergy to polyurethane chemistry should steer clear.
The ingredient is manufactured from synthetic and plant-derived building blocks and contains no animal-sourced components, making it suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Final product cruelty-free status depends on the brand’s testing policies rather than the polymer itself.
No specific warnings exist for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding as the large molecule is unlikely to penetrate deeply or reach systemic circulation. This is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should still run any skincare routine past a qualified doctor to be safe.
Polyurethane-62 does not increase photosensitivity so daytime wear is fine. Because it forms a flexible film some users may notice a slight build-up on hair or skin if they layer multiple long-wear products but routine cleansing removes this easily.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyurethane-62 differ from person to person. The following are potential side effects that remain uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished cosmetic formulation.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in individuals sensitive to polyurethane chemistry
- Contact dermatitis triggered by residual isocyanate traces for those with specific allergies
- Temporary clogged pores or breakouts in very acne-prone users when formulas are layered heavily
- Eye irritation or watering if the product accidentally migrates into the eyes
- Scalp or hair build-up leading to dullness when high-hold styling products are not washed out regularly
If any discomfort or persistent reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Polyurethane-62 is a large, film-forming molecule that sits on the surface rather than sinking into pores so it is unlikely to block them. It also has a balanced mix of water-loving and oil-loving segments which means it does not create a heavy oily layer that could trap debris. Very acne-prone users might see minor congestion if they stack several long-wear products containing the polymer without thorough cleansing but in most cases it poses little risk.
Suitable for people who are prone to breakouts, especially when used in lightweight formulas such as gels or serums.
Comedogenicity can still rise or fall depending on the total recipe. Pairing the polymer with rich butters or waxes may tip a product toward clogging while combining it with non-occlusive humectants keeps the rating low.
Summary
Polyurethane-62 works mainly as a binder and viscosity controller. It creates a flexible micro-thin film that locks pigments, UV filters and actives in place so color, coverage and protection stay consistent. At the same time its polymer chain length and partial water solubility let formulators fine tune thickness giving creams a plush glide or gels a springy bounce without greasiness.
While not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid it has carved out a steady niche in long-wear makeup, modern sunscreens and light textured moisturizers because it quietly boosts performance and sensory feel.
Safety data show low irritation and allergen potential and the molecule is too big to penetrate deeply. Finished products still vary, so patch testing any new item is a smart step to make sure your individual skin agrees.