What Is Polyurethane-74?
Polyurethane-74 is a man-made polymer created by reacting isophorone diisocyanate with a blend of specialty alcohols and a small polyester starter. The result is a clear flexible resin that is capped with 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate to keep the chains stable and ready for use in water-based formulas. Because every building block is produced in a lab this ingredient is considered fully synthetic rather than plant or animal derived.
Polyurethanes first found fame in the 1950s as durable coatings and flexible foams. As formulators searched for light breathable films that could move with skin and hair, they began adapting these resins for cosmetics. Polyurethane-74 is one of the newer grades, refined in the early 2000s to meet cosmetic purity standards and to disperse easily in water without heavy solvents.
The manufacturing process starts with a polyester pre-polymer formed by combining diethyl carbonate, hexanediol, a small amount of glycol and epsilon-caprolactone. This pre-polymer is then linked to isophorone diisocyanate, followed by a final “capping” step with 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate that locks the structure so it will not keep reacting inside a cream or lotion. Tight process control gives a uniform molecular weight which translates to consistent feel on skin.
In finished products you will most often see Polyurethane-74 in long-wear makeup such as liquid foundations, eyeliners, mascaras or brow gels where it forms a flexible water resistant film. It also shows up in peel-off masks, setting sprays, lightweight moisturizers, hair styling gels and some sunscreen emulsions that need extra staying power without a heavy waxy finish.
Polyurethane-74’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Although it plays just one official role Polyurethane-74 has a big impact on how a formula looks, feels and lasts once applied.
Binding: This polymer acts like a microscopic glue that holds pigments, oils and water together so the product stays smooth and uniform from the first squeeze to the last. On skin it dries to a thin flexible film that improves wear time, resists smudging and helps active ingredients cling where they are needed. Because the film is breathable it keeps makeup from feeling tight or mask-like while still boosting resistance to sweat or rubbing.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-74
Because it forms a lightweight breathable film Polyurethane-74 can be used on most skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry skin. Its non-occlusive nature means it will not trap excess oil so acne-prone users generally tolerate it well. People with very sensitive or compromised skin should proceed cautiously since any synthetic polymer can occasionally trigger irritation if the barrier is already weakened.
The ingredient is produced entirely from laboratory-made chemicals with no animal or plant derivatives so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As always check the finished product label to make sure other ingredients align with your lifestyle choices.
Current safety data suggest that Polyurethane-74 sits on the surface of skin, does not penetrate and is not systemically absorbed. This makes it unlikely to pose a risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women, but this is not medical advice. Anyone who is expecting or nursing should review any skincare or makeup product with their healthcare provider to be on the safe side.
Polyurethane-74 is not known to cause photosensitivity, and it does not interfere with sunscreens. It can be worn year-round without increasing the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyurethane-74 differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild redness or itching
- Contact dermatitis in individuals already allergic to polyurethane resins or residual monomers
- Transient stinging if the product gets into the eyes
- Flaking or tight feeling if too many layers are applied
- Rare clogged pores in very congestion-prone skin if combined with heavy oils or waxes
If you experience any of the reactions above discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Polyurethane-74 is a large surface-sitting polymer that creates a permeable film rather than plugging follicle openings. It contains no fatty acids or waxy residues that usually trigger breakouts, so its inherent pore-clogging potential is very low. The slight risk earns it a 1 rather than a perfect 0 because extremely occlusion-sensitive skin could react if the ingredient is paired with rich oils or layered too thickly.
Overall Polyurethane-74 is considered suitable for acne-prone or congestion-prone skin.
If you already use heavy creams or occlusive makeup, be aware that multiple film formers in one routine can add up and feel suffocating even when each ingredient is low on the comedogenic scale.
Summary
Polyurethane-74 serves mainly as a binder and film former that locks pigments and active ingredients in place, boosts water resistance and keeps textures smooth from the bottle to the skin. It achieves this by creating a flexible microlayer that dries quickly yet moves naturally with skin or hair.
While not as famous as silicone elastomers or older acrylate copolymers, Polyurethane-74 has found a loyal following in long-wear foundations, eyeliners and peel-off masks where durability with a lightweight feel is non-negotiable.
Current research shows it stays on the skin surface, is not absorbed and rarely irritates, making it a safe choice for most users. As with any new skincare or makeup product, a small patch test is smart practice to confirm personal compatibility.