Polyurethane-80: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Polyurethane-80?

Polyurethane-80 is a synthetic polymer resin officially described as Art Resin UN 9000PEP. Chemically it belongs to the large family of polyurethanes, which are chains of repeating urethane links formed by reacting polyols with diisocyanates. The number 80 identifies a specific balance of flexibility and hardness that suits personal care formulas. This material does not come from a plant or animal source; it is made in controlled industrial settings where raw liquid monomers are combined, heated and cured into a stable resin that can later be milled into a fine powder or dispersed in water.

The cosmetic world first noticed polyurethane technology in the late 1970s when chemists were searching for durable lightweight film formers to replace heavier waxes. Over time versions like Polyurethane-80 proved especially good at binding pigments and other particles, which led to its adoption in color cosmetics. As manufacturing methods improved, supply became more consistent and the ingredient earned a spot on global regulatory lists for safe topical use.

Today Polyurethane-80 shows up in a variety of products: liquid and powder foundations, pressed eye shadows, waterproof mascaras, long wear lipsticks, peel off facial masks and even some hair styling gels where strong yet flexible hold is important. Its presence helps these formulas stay uniform during storage, apply smoothly and resist smudging throughout the day.

Polyurethane-80’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare and makeup formulas Polyurethane-80 is valued for one main role.

Binding: The resin acts like a microscopic glue that holds pigments, shimmer particles or other solid ingredients together so they remain evenly distributed in the product and adhere well to skin or hair. This improves color payoff, prevents patchiness and boosts wear time without making the texture feel heavy or sticky.

Who Can Use Polyurethane-80

Polyurethane-80 is generally considered friendly for all skin types, including oily, dry, combination and normal skin, because it sits on the surface and does not interfere with the skin’s natural moisture balance. People with very sensitive or compromised skin might want to be more cautious, as any film-forming resin can occasionally feel occlusive or cause minor irritation if their barrier is already inflamed.

The ingredient is fully synthetic with no animal-derived raw materials, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No specific warnings exist for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Regulatory assessments show low skin penetration and no known reproductive toxicity. Still, this is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any skincare product with their doctor to be safe.

Polyurethane-80 does not cause photosensitivity, and there are no known interactions with sunscreen actives or other common cosmetic ingredients.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Polyurethane-80 differ from person to person. The effects below are possible but unlikely for most users when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.

  • Mild skin irritation – slight redness or itching, typically in people with very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis – rare allergic response presenting as rash or swelling in individuals already allergic to polyurethane compounds
  • Follicular occlusion – temporary congestion if heavy, multi-layered products containing Polyurethane-80 are not thoroughly removed
  • Eye discomfort – stinging or watering if loose powder or mascara flakes enter the eyes

If any of these issues occur stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Polyurethane-80 forms a light breathable film that does not clog pores in most people. It lacks oily or waxy components that typically trigger comedones, so its tendency to block follicles is very low. The slight chance of build-up when multiple heavy products are layered keeps it from earning a perfect zero.

Overall it is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the finished formula is removed thoroughly at the end of the day.

No evidence suggests it feeds acne-causing bacteria or increases sebum production.

Summary

Polyurethane-80 is a synthetic binding resin that holds pigments and other particles together, helping makeup and skincare stay uniform, apply smoothly and wear longer without flaking. It works by forming a thin flexible film that anchors ingredients to skin or hair.

The ingredient enjoys steady but not superstar popularity; you will spot it most often in long wear foundations, pressed powders, mascaras and peel-off masks where its binding power really shines.

Safety reviews show very low irritation and allergy potential, and its comedogenic rating of 1 means few pore-clogging concerns. Even so, everyone’s skin is unique so it is always wise to patch test any new product containing Polyurethane-80 before full application.

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