What Is Polyurethane-86?
Polyurethane-86 is a synthetic film-forming polymer created from a series of controlled reactions that link together smaller molecules. The process starts by condensing ethylene carbonate with hexanediol to make a soft, flexible polyester backbone. That polyester is then combined with 1,5-pentanediol and reacted with isophorone diisocyanate, which introduces hard urethane segments that give the final material strength and durability. To make the polymer compatible with water-based cosmetic formulas it is finished, or “capped,” with HEMA, a hydrophilic monomer widely used in personal care. The result is a stable, high-performance polymer that dissolves or disperses easily in modern skincare and makeup bases.
Polyurethane technology first appeared in coatings and adhesives during the 1940s but only migrated to cosmetics in the late 20th century when formulators began searching for flexible, breathable film formers that feel lighter than traditional resins. Polyurethane-86 quickly gained popularity because it offers strong adhesion without a tacky afterfeel, helping products stay put while remaining comfortable on skin.
You will most often spot Polyurethane-86 in long-wear foundations, BB creams, eyeliners, mascaras, liquid lipsticks, peel-off masks, setting sprays and waterproof sunscreens. It can also show up in some hair-styling products that need humidity resistance.
Polyurethane-86’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In beauty formulas Polyurethane-86 serves one primary purpose that delivers several practical advantages.
Binding: As a film former it creates a flexible mesh on the skin or hair surface, anchoring pigments, actives and other ingredients where they are applied. This boosts wear time, prevents color transfer, improves water and sweat resistance and helps peel-off masks lift away cleanly in a single sheet.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-86
Polyurethane-86 is generally suitable for normal, dry, oily and combination skin because the thin breathable film it forms does not add heavy grease or strip moisture. People with very sensitive or eczema-prone skin might prefer to avoid it since any film former can occasionally trap heat or sweat and worsen pre-existing irritation.
The polymer is fully synthetic with no animal derived feedstocks so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly.
There is no evidence that Polyurethane-86 poses a specific risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding. It sits on the surface and is not expected to penetrate deeply, yet out of caution pregnant or nursing users should discuss any cosmetic product with their healthcare provider before adding it to a routine. This is not medical advice.
Polyurethane-86 does not absorb UV light and is not known to cause photosensitivity. It can actually help keep sunscreen actives in place which indirectly supports sun protection.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyurethane-86 differ from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but not expected for most users when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Skin irritation: A small percentage of users may notice redness stinging or a warming sensation, especially on damaged skin.
- Allergic contact dermatitis: Rare sensitivity to trace residual monomers or isocyanate impurities can lead to rash or itching.
- Temporary clogged pores: In very occlusive formulas the film may trap sebum which could contribute to breakouts in acne-prone individuals.
- Eye discomfort: If mascara or eyeliner flakes, particles can enter the eye and cause watering or mild irritation.
- Enhanced penetration of other actives: The film can sometimes hold potent ingredients against the skin longer than intended potentially intensifying their effects.
If you experience any of these reactions stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (low)
Polyurethane-86 is a lightweight synthetic film former that does not contain fatty acids or heavy oils that typically clog pores. Its molecules sit on top of the skin in a breathable mesh and are too large to slip into follicles. In most formulas it leaves behind a dry flexible layer rather than a greasy residue, so the chance of blocking pores is minimal. For these reasons it earns a low comedogenic rating of 1.
People who are prone to acne or breakouts can usually use Polyurethane-86 without issues, though very thick or highly occlusive products that pair the polymer with waxes or butters could raise the risk slightly.
Summary
Polyurethane-86 is mainly valued as a binder and film former. It locks pigments, sunscreen filters and other actives onto the skin or hair by creating a thin flexible network that boosts wear time, resists sweat and water and helps peel-off masks release cleanly. This performance has put it in long-wear makeup, water-resistant sunscreens and certain styling products, yet it remains a niche choice compared with older resins like acrylates because it costs more and requires careful processing.
Overall safety data show the polymer is non-sensitizing for most users, has a very low comedogenic potential and does not penetrate deeply. Still, skin can react unpredictably to any ingredient so it is wise to patch test a new product containing Polyurethane-86 before full use.