What Is Polyurethane-88?
Polyurethane-88 is the cosmetic trade name for a specialized copolymer technically described as Bis-HEMA Poly(Caprolactone Hexamethylene Carbonate)/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Neopentyl Glycol/IPDI Copolymer. In everyday terms it is a flexible film-forming plastic created by linking together small molecules called monomers into a larger network. The backbone combines caprolactone, a biodegradable polyester, and dimethicone, a well known silicone, so the final material offers both softness and water resistance.
Polyurethane technology dates back to the 1930s but this version gained attention in the 2000s when formulators wanted lightweight alternatives to brittle hair sprays and nail coatings. By tweaking the monomers scientists developed Polyurethane-88, which forms clear elastic layers ideal for skin and hair care.
Manufacturing starts with caprolactone and neopentyl glycol reacted to form a prepolymer. Isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) is then added to extend the chain followed by dimethicone segments that graft onto the backbone. The process occurs in a solvent-controlled reactor under strict temperature monitoring until the desired molecular weight is reached. The finished polymer is purified, diluted into a cosmetic-grade solution and checked for purity and consistency.
You will most often see Polyurethane-88 in peel-off face masks, long-wear foundations, waterproof mascaras, liquid lipsticks, hair styling gels and nail treatments. Its ability to create a breathable yet durable film helps products stay put while feeling comfortable on skin or hair.
Polyurethane-88’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulations Polyurethane-88 serves primarily as a binder. By tightly holding pigment particles and other ingredients together it forms a cohesive film that improves product adhesion and longevity. This means makeup resists smudging, peel-off masks lift away in one piece and hair gels maintain style even in humid conditions.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-88
Because it is a lightweight film former with low oil content, Polyurethane-88 suits most skin types including normal, combination and oily. Dry or eczema-prone skin can also tolerate it since the polymer is not inherently drying, though very sensitive skin may feel tight if the finished formula contains a high level of alcohol or fragrance around the polymer.
The material is fully synthetic and does not contain animal-derived components, so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Still, certification depends on the brand’s full supply chain.
Current safety data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Polyurethane-88 is used topically in cosmetics. This information is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show any product they plan to use to a qualified health professional first.
The ingredient does not absorb UV light and does not increase photosensitivity. It is also fragrance-free and gluten-free, which may be relevant for users with those particular concerns.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Polyurethane-88 vary from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential effects and are not expected for the average user when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in sensitive individuals
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of true polymer sensitivity
- Clogged pores or small breakouts if used in very heavy layers on acne-prone skin
- Eye discomfort if flakes from a dried product containing the polymer enter the eye
- Build-up on hair shafts leading to dullness or stiffness when used in styling products without periodic cleansing
If any discomfort, rash or other unwanted effect occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Polyurethane-88 forms an airy flexible film that sits on the surface rather than sinking into pores, and it contains no heavy oils or waxes that typically trigger congestion. While thick layers or formulas packed with additional occlusive ingredients could still trap debris, the polymer itself carries a very low risk of pore blockage.
Because of this low rating, Polyurethane-88 is generally suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts.
Keep in mind overall formulation matters: a lightweight peel-off mask with Polyurethane-88 is less likely to cause issues than a rich cream that also includes it.
Summary
Polyurethane-88 is mainly a binder and film former, giving makeup, masks, hair gels and nail products better grip, flexibility and water resistance. It achieves this by creating a clear elastic network that locks pigments and other ingredients in place while allowing a bit of breathability.
The ingredient is moderately popular, especially in long-wear cosmetics and trendy peel-off treatments, but it remains a specialty polymer rather than a household name.
Current data shows it is low-irritant, vegan friendly and safe for topical use on most skin types when formulated correctly. As with any new product, patch testing is a smart step to make sure your own skin plays nicely with it.