What Is Polyurethane-89?
Polyurethane-89 is a modern synthetic polymer created by reacting caprolactone, hexamethylene carbonate, dimethicone, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate into a single long chain called a copolymer. The result is a clear flexible resin that behaves like a lightweight film when spread on skin.
The material was first explored in the early 2000s as chemists searched for gentler alternatives to heavy waxes and gums. Its ability to form an even breathable layer soon caught the attention of cosmetic labs, and by the mid-2010s it began appearing in prestige makeup and skin care lines.
Manufacturing starts with plant-derived caprolactone and neopentyl glycol that are combined with cosmetic-grade silicone and reacted under controlled heat and pressure with the diisocyanate. The process is carried out in closed systems to keep the final resin free of unwanted solvents, then the polymer is filtered, cooled and milled into a pourable liquid.
You will mainly spot Polyurethane-89 in long-wear foundations, mascara, brow gels, peel-off masks, flexible sunscreens and transfer-resistant lip colors where a comfortable invisible film is needed to hold pigments or actives in place.
Polyurethane-89’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves one key function that brings multiple practical perks to a formula.
As a binding agent Polyurethane-89 helps pigments and other particles stick together and cling to skin so colors stay true and products resist smudging or flaking. It also gives a smooth flexible finish that moves with facial expressions which improves comfort in long-wear makeup and prevents cracking in peel-off masks.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-89
Polyurethane-89 is generally suitable for all skin types including oily, dry, combination and normal skin because it sits on the surface as a lightweight film without clogging pores or drawing out moisture. People with very sensitive or reactive skin should monitor how they feel with any new film formers, as the resin nature of the polymer can occasionally feel tight or cause mild redness if the skin barrier is already compromised.
The copolymer is produced from plant sourced caprolactone and glycol along with lab made silicone and isophorone diisocyanate so no animal derivatives are involved. That makes products containing Polyurethane-89 appropriate for vegans and vegetarians provided the overall formula is certified cruelty free.
No published data suggests a specific risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Polyurethane-89 is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices by their doctor to be safe.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and does not interfere with sunscreen filters. People who enjoy outdoor activities can wear it during the day without added sun risk.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyurethane-89 vary from person to person. The effects below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels.
- Mild skin tightness or transient stiffness
- Temporary redness or irritation on very sensitive skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis marked by itching or small bumps
- Eye discomfort if applied too close to the waterline
If any irritation or adverse reaction develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Polyurethane-89 forms a thin breathable film that sits on top of the skin rather than soaking into pores. Its large polymer size and lightweight texture mean it is unlikely to trap oil or dead cells, so the chance of clogging is minimal. A rating of 1 reflects this low risk while acknowledging that any film former can, in rare instances, hold debris if layered over very heavy creams or sunscreen.
Because of this low score products using Polyurethane-89 are generally acceptable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
If the ingredient appears alongside high amounts of oils, butters or waxes the overall formula may feel heavier which could influence breakout potential more than the polymer itself.
Summary
Polyurethane-89 is mainly a binder that locks pigments, actives and other particles together and anchors them to skin, nails or lashes. It achieves this by creating a clear flexible lattice that moves with facial expressions yet resists water, sweat and friction.
Its popularity is moderate: widely used in long wear and prestige makeup but still absent from many everyday moisturizers and cleansers. Brands appreciate its ability to boost performance without adding weight which is why it keeps popping up in next generation mascaras, brow gels and transfer proof foundations.
Overall safety is high with very few reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a small area first to confirm personal tolerance.