Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters?

Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters is a plant-based ingredient that starts with the seeds of the Pongamia glabra tree, sometimes called the Indian beech. Chemists take the natural seed oil and run it through a process called transesterification, where they swap parts of the oil with a branched fatty alcohol containing 16 to 24 carbon atoms. The result is a silky liquid made up of longer, more stable fatty esters that sit comfortably on the skin.

Pongamia oil has long been used in traditional practices as a general skin protectant. Modern formulators began looking at it when the demand for sustainable plant oils grew. By tweaking the oil into these C16-24 isoalkyl esters, they created a version that feels lighter, resists oxidation better and blends easily into lotions or creams. The ingredient now appears in moisturizers, face masks, anti-aging serums, body butters and hair leave-ins where a soft, cushiony finish is desired.

Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Here is what this multitasking ester brings to a formula:

  • Skin conditioning: Helps soften, smooth and support the skin barrier so skin feels supple and looks healthier
  • Emollient: Creates a light, non-greasy layer that locks in moisture, improves spreadability and gives products a luxurious slip

Who Can Use Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters

This esterified oil is generally suitable for most skin types. It brings welcome softness to dry, normal and combination skin while its light, non-sticky feel makes it comfortable for oily or sensitive complexions too. People with very acne-prone skin may still prefer spot-testing formulas first since any rich emollient has a small chance of feeling heavy on their pores.

The ingredient is entirely plant derived so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal-sourced substances or by-products are used in its production.

Current literature shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare professional to review their skin care routine just to be safe.

Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters is not known to cause photosensitivity so daytime use is fine without extra sun precautions beyond a regular broad-spectrum sunscreen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to topical Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues but they are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.

  • Mild redness or stinging in individuals with a sensitivity to legume-derived ingredients
  • Contact dermatitis in rare cases of specific allergy to Pongamia oil components
  • Temporary clogged pores or breakouts in those who are extremely oil sensitive
  • Greasy feel if layered with many other occlusive products

If any irritation or other negative reaction develops stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5. Although the parent pongamia oil is fairly rich, converting it into C16-24 isoalkyl esters gives a lighter texture that spreads thinly and absorbs without leaving a heavy residue. Most users will not experience clogged pores, yet the molecule is still an oil-derived emollient so a low-to-moderate score is prudent. In practical terms it is usually fine for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, especially when used in well-balanced formulas, but those extremely sensitive to any oil might prefer a completely non-comedogenic alternative.

Formulation level matters: products that rely on this ester as a minor slip agent tend to feel weightless, while very rich balms built around it may sit longer on the skin and feel heavier. The final sensory profile often depends on the other lipids and thickeners in the blend.

Summary

Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil C16-24 Isoalkyl Esters acts mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient. Its branched fatty ester structure glides over the skin, fills in tiny surface gaps and slows water loss so the barrier stays soft and flexible. Compared with the raw seed oil it resists oxidation, feels silkier and mixes more easily into both water-based and anhydrous formulas.

The ingredient enjoys growing but still niche popularity, sitting beside well-known esters like coco-caprylate as a greener option for brands focused on sustainability. You will spot it more often in mid-range to indie lines than in mass market staples, yet its pleasant feel means adoption is rising each year.

Current data shows a low irritation risk and no specific long-term safety concerns when used topically at cosmetic levels. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to do a quick patch test before full use to make sure your skin plays nicely with the formula.

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