What Is Potassium Ascorbylborate?
Potassium ascorbylborate is a specialty salt created when boric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) react in the presence of potassium. The result is a stable, water-soluble powder that blends the skin-loving qualities of vitamin C with the soothing effect often linked to boron compounds. It was first explored in the 1990s as chemists searched for vitamin C forms that resist oxidation yet remain gentle on skin. Production typically involves dissolving ascorbic acid and boric acid in water, adding a potassium source such as potassium hydroxide, then carefully controlling pH and temperature until the new salt crystallizes. Once dried and milled, the ingredient is ready for use.
Because it dissolves easily in water and stays stable in a wider pH range than pure vitamin C, formulators like to slip potassium ascorbylborate into lightweight serums, hydrating gels, sheet masks, brightening essences and everyday moisturizers designed for dull or thirsty skin. It shows up most often in anti-aging lines that aim to smooth, plump and improve overall tone without the sting sometimes caused by strong acids.
Potassium Ascorbylborate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas potassium ascorbylborate serves mainly as a humectant. Humectants draw moisture from the environment and pull it toward the skin surface. By binding water this ingredient helps keep a product feeling fresh and hydrates the outer layers of skin, which can soften fine lines, support elasticity and give a dewy finish.
Who Can Use Potassium Ascorbylborate
This gentle humectant suits most skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily skin, because it hydrates without leaving a heavy or greasy residue. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well thanks to its low-sting profile, though anyone with a known sensitivity to boron compounds should approach with caution and check ingredient lists carefully.
Potassium ascorbylborate is produced from mineral and plant-derived sources, with no animal by-products involved, so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
No specific warnings link this ingredient to problems during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice; women who are pregnant or nursing should show any new skincare product to their doctor before use to be safe.
The molecule does not increase photosensitivity, so daytime use is fine as long as you follow regular sun protection habits.
Formulas containing potassium ascorbylborate are water soluble and typically lightweight, making them a good option under makeup or layered with other actives that share a similar pH range.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical potassium ascorbylborate differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, but they are not common when the ingredient is formulated and used properly.
- Mild redness or warmth the skin may look flushed for a short time after application
- Light tingling temporary sensation that usually fades as the product dries
- Transient dryness rare cases of tightness if the formula lacks emollients
- Allergic response itching rash or swelling in those with sensitivity to boron or vitamin C derivatives
- Irritation when layered with strong acids or retinoids over-exfoliation can make skin feel tender
If you notice persistent discomfort discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5
Potassium ascorbylborate is a small, water-soluble molecule that does not form an occlusive film on skin or leave behind oily residues that could clog pores. Because it functions purely as a humectant and is typically used at low percentages, it earns a zero on the comedogenic scale. This makes it suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin types.
There are no reports of it interacting with sebum oxidation or altering pore lining, so its presence in a formula should not raise the risk of comedones. If a product containing this ingredient triggers congestion, it is more likely due to other components in the formula rather than potassium ascorbylborate itself.
Summary
Potassium ascorbylborate’s main role in cosmetics is to act as a humectant, drawing moisture from the environment and binding it to the upper layers of skin so the complexion looks plumper, smoother and better hydrated. It performs this job efficiently because the ascorbic acid portion loves water, while the potassium salt form keeps the molecule stable across a friendly pH range.
Despite its useful benefits it remains a niche vitamin C derivative, so you will not find it in as many products as more common hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. That said brands that value gentle, water-light textures sometimes rely on it to give their formulas an edge.
Overall safety data are reassuring: low irritation potential, no known systemic concerns and a non-comedogenic profile. Even so every skin is unique so it is always wise to patch test any new product that lists potassium ascorbylborate before applying it to your entire face.