What Is Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids?
Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids is a plant-derived ingredient created by reacting fatty acids from coconut with amino acids obtained from hydrolyzed barley protein, then neutralizing the resulting compound with potassium hydroxide to form a gentle, water-soluble salt. The coconut portion supplies long-chain fatty acids that give the molecule its mild cleansing and softening properties, while the barley portion contributes short peptides and amino acids that can bond with water and help condition skin.
Amino acid-based surfactants first gained traction in Japan in the 1970s as formulators searched for alternatives to harsher sulfates. As consumer demand grew for milder, more sustainable cleansers, suppliers began pairing coconut fatty acids with various plant proteins, leading to versions that use wheat, oat or barley. The barley variant entered commercial use in the past decade thanks to its balanced profile of glutamic acid and proline, which improves skin feel and boosts foam stability.
Manufacturing typically starts with coconut oil that is converted to fatty acid chlorides. Separately, barley protein is enzymatically hydrolyzed into its constituent amino acids. The two streams are combined, allowing the fatty acid chlorides to couple with the amino acids, then potassium hydroxide is added to neutralize the mix and yield Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids. The final material is filtered and concentrated into a clear to pale yellow liquid that dissolves easily in water.
You will most often see this ingredient in facial cleansers, micellar waters, sulfate-free shampoos, cream-to-foam body washes, baby washes, makeup removers, lightweight moisturizers and leave-on masks that aim for a low-irritancy profile.
Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas, Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids brings several functional perks that enhance both product performance and user experience.
- Emulsion stabilising – helps keep oil and water phases evenly mixed so creams and lotions stay smooth throughout their shelf life
- Skin conditioning – deposits a thin film of amino acids and fatty acids that leaves skin feeling soft hydrated and less tight after cleansing
- Emollient – adds slip and a silky touch, improving spreadability while reducing moisture loss from the skin surface
- Emulsifying – acts as a mild surfactant that supports gentle cleansing and assists in forming fine, uniform emulsions without the need for harsher detergents
Who Can Use Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids
This ingredient is considered gentle enough for nearly all skin types, including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive or eczema-prone skin because it cleanses without stripping natural oils. Those with very reactive skin or a diagnosed coconut or barley allergy should proceed with caution as the raw materials come from those sources.
Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids is plant derived and contains no animal by-products so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
There are no known issues for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full product ingredient list to a doctor just to be safe.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it will not interfere with sunscreen performance. It is also fragrance free and gluten free after processing because the hydrolysis step breaks down barley protein below the size that triggers most gluten reactions.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, yet they are uncommon when the formula is correctly made and used as directed.
- Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to coconut or barley proteins
- Eye irritation if the cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
- Tightness or dryness if used in a very high concentration or without follow-up moisturizer
If you notice any negative reaction stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low likelihood of clogging pores)
This score reflects the ingredient’s water-soluble salt structure and amino acid profile, both of which rinse away cleanly instead of lingering on the skin and blocking follicles. While the coconut-derived fatty acids contribute mild emolliency, they are bound within the surfactant so they do not behave like heavier oils that can trap debris. For most people Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Only in unusually high leave-on concentrations might it pose any risk of congestion.
Formulators often pair it with other low-comedogenic surfactants in gentle cleansers which keeps the overall pore-clogging potential minimal.
Summary
Potassium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids acts as an emulsion stabiliser, skin conditioner, emollient and emulsifier. Its coconut-sourced fatty tail loves oil and its barley-derived amino head loves water which lets it sit at the oil-water interface, keep formulas uniform, lift away dirt and leave behind a soft hydrated feel. The ingredient is gaining traction in sulfate-free cleansers and lightweight moisturisers, though it is still less common than staples like coco-betaine or sodium cocoyl isethionate.
Overall safety is high with a low irritation and comedogenic profile. Most users can enjoy products containing this surfactant with confidence, yet trying any new formula on a small patch of skin first is always a smart move.