Ppg-20-Laureth-12: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ppg-20-Laureth-12?

Ppg-20-Laureth-12 is a synthetic surfactant that acts as a cleansing agent in topical cosmetics. It is produced by reacting lauryl alcohol, which is often sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil, with both ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The numbers in its name describe how many repeating units of each oxide are added, giving the molecule a balanced water-loving and oil-loving structure that helps lift dirt and oil from skin or hair. Surfactants like this became popular in the mid-20th century when formulators looked for milder, more versatile alternatives to traditional soaps, and Ppg-20-Laureth-12 has remained a staple because it offers reliable foam and rinses away easily.

The manufacturing process starts with lauryl alcohol that is first ethoxylated to create laureth-12, then further treated with propylene oxide to add the PPG-20 segment. The controlled addition of these oxide units tailors the molecule’s solubility and mildness. After purification, the finished ingredient is supplied as a clear liquid that blends smoothly into water-based or oil-in-water emulsions.

You will most often see Ppg-20-Laureth-12 in facial cleansers, micellar waters, body washes, shampoos, baby washes, makeup removers and exfoliating masks. Because it is gentle and versatile, formulators also slip it into toners and light moisturizers that need a touch of cleansing power to leave skin feeling fresh.

Ppg-20-Laureth-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Below is the main way this ingredient supports a cosmetic formula

Ppg-20-Laureth-12 functions as a cleansing agent, meaning it helps water mix with oil and debris so they can be lifted away from skin or hair. This delivers a fresh, clean feel without the harshness that stronger detergents sometimes cause, allowing products to remove daily grime while keeping the skin barrier comfortable.

Who Can Use Ppg-20-Laureth-12

Ppg-20-Laureth-12 is generally well tolerated by most skin types including normal, oily, combination and mildly sensitive skin thanks to its mild cleansing nature. People with very dry or eczema-prone skin may find any surfactant a little drying if used too often so they may prefer formulas where it is paired with richer emollients.

The ingredient is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians because the starting fatty alcohol is almost always sourced from sustainably grown coconut or palm oils rather than animal fat and no animal-derived processing aids are required during manufacturing. As always, final product cruelty-free status depends on the brand’s own policies.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Industry safety reviews have not flagged developmental or reproductive risks at the levels used in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should still show the full ingredient list of any product to their doctor to be safe.

Ppg-20-Laureth-12 is not known to cause photosensitivity or make skin more prone to sunburn. It can be used comfortably in both day and night products.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Ppg-20-Laureth-12 vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects though most users will experience none of them when the ingredient is used at the low percentages typical of finished products.

  • Mild transient stinging or redness on very sensitive skin, especially if skin barrier is already compromised
  • Dryness or tightness if the cleanser is left on the skin for a prolonged period or used too frequently
  • Eye irritation and watering when high-foaming formulas come in direct contact with eyes
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis marked by persistent itching or rash
  • Theoretical risk of trace 1,4-dioxane contamination if the manufacturer has not properly purified the ingredient

If any persistent burning, itching or rash occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 – Ppg-20-Laureth-12 is highly water soluble and is usually found in rinse-off cleansers, so it does not linger on skin in a way that would block pores. Its molecular structure lacks heavy oils or waxes that commonly trigger comedones. For these reasons it poses a very low risk of clogging pores and is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Because it is used in low concentrations and rinsed away, it is unlikely to aggravate existing blemishes. Only in the rare case of an individual sensitivity would it contribute to congestion.

Summary

Ppg-20-Laureth-12 is a synthetic surfactant that functions as a gentle cleanser. Its balanced water-loving and oil-loving segments surround dirt, sebum and makeup so they can be lifted off the skin or hair and rinsed away cleanly, leaving the surface refreshed without harsh stripping. Thanks to this reliable performance it shows up in a wide range of face washes, micellar waters, shampoos and even some lightweight lotions, although it rarely gets star billing on product labels.

Safety assessments by cosmetic regulators have found it non-toxic and low in irritation at the levels used in personal care so most people can use it without concern. Still, every skin is unique so it is always smart to patch test any new product containing Ppg-20-Laureth-12 to be sure it suits your individual tolerance.

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