Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate?

Propylene glycol dicaprylate is an ester formed when propylene glycol, a small organic alcohol, reacts with caprylic acid, a fatty acid derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. The result is a lightweight oil that feels silky rather than greasy. First introduced in the 1970s as chemists searched for cleaner feeling emollients, it quickly found a place in skin care for its ability to soften skin and improve texture without clogging pores.

The manufacturing process involves esterification, where propylene glycol and caprylic acid are heated together in the presence of an acid catalyst. Water is removed and the mixture is purified, producing a clear odorless liquid suitable for cosmetic use.

You can spot propylene glycol dicaprylate in facial moisturizers, sunscreens, anti aging creams, makeup primers, cleansing balms, sheet masks and lightweight body lotions. Formulators favor it for products that need a smooth gliding feel and a non sticky finish.

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators rely on this ingredient for two main roles

  • Emollient: It creates a soft film on the skin surface that fills in tiny cracks making skin feel smooth supple and well conditioned. This helps reduce transepidermal water loss which supports lasting hydration
  • Viscosity controlling: By adjusting thickness it helps creams and lotions feel light spread easily and absorb quickly so products do not feel heavy or occlusive

Who Can Use Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate

This lightweight ester suits most skin types including normal, dry, oily and combination skin because it absorbs quickly and leaves no heavy residue. People with acne-prone or sensitive skin generally tolerate it well since it has a low likelihood of clogging pores or causing redness. Those with very reactive skin conditions should still keep an eye on how their skin responds, as with any new ingredient.

Propylene glycol dicaprylate is produced from plant-derived fatty acids so it is usually considered appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full product label to be sure no other animal-derived ingredients are present.

The ingredient is viewed as low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Nonetheless this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices by a qualified healthcare provider to stay on the safe side.

It does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need to avoid sun exposure beyond normal daily sun protection guidelines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical propylene glycol dicaprylate differ from person to person. The points below cover potential effects that are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used in a properly formulated product.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness itching or burning
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals with an existing sensitivity to propylene glycol esters
  • Watery eyes or slight stinging when used near the eye area
  • Rare cases of clogged pores or small bumps in people extremely prone to folliculitis

If any of these effects occur discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Propylene glycol dicaprylate is a lightweight ester that sinks in quickly and leaves minimal residue so it has little tendency to trap oil or dead skin in the pores. Studies and anecdotal reports show a low incidence of breakouts compared with heavier oils and butters which is why it earns a near non-comedogenic score of 1.

Most people prone to acne or frequent breakouts can use products containing this ingredient without trouble.

Keep in mind that overall formula matters. If propylene glycol dicaprylate appears alongside highly occlusive waxes or comedogenic oils the finished product could still trigger congestion.

Summary

Propylene glycol dicaprylate works as an emollient and a viscosity controller. As an emollient it forms a thin conditioning layer that smooths rough patches and reduces moisture loss. As a viscosity controller it lightens textures helping creams and lotions glide on evenly and absorb fast.

While not as famous as glycerin or caprylic/capric triglyceride it shows up in a steady stream of modern moisturizers, sunscreens and makeup primers because formulators value its silky feel and low greasiness.

Safety profiles rate it low risk with rare irritation or pore clogging. Still every skin is unique so patch testing a new product is a smart step before full-face use.

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