Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate?

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is an oily liquid made by joining propylene glycol with two medium chain fatty acids: caprylic acid (from coconuts or palm kernels) and capric acid. The result is a light, colorless ester that feels silky rather than greasy. Chemists first explored these esters in the 1970s while looking for plant-derived alternatives to mineral oil. Over time its smooth texture and skin-friendly profile led formulators to add it to creams, lotions and makeup primers. Production begins with sustainably sourced vegetable oils that get split into the individual fatty acids. These acids are then reacted with pharmaceutical-grade propylene glycol under heat and vacuum, creating the finished ingredient that is later purified and quality tested. You will usually spot it in daily moisturizers, hydrating serums, face masks, sunscreens, BB creams, anti-aging emulsions and cleansing oils where it improves spreadability and leaves skin soft.

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient plays one key role in topical formulas.

As an emollient it fills in tiny gaps between skin cells which smooths the surface and reduces moisture loss. Its lightweight feel helps creams glide on without heaviness making it ideal for people who dislike richer oils. It also enhances the overall sensory experience so products feel more elegant and fast absorbing.

Who Can Use Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Most skin types tolerate this emollient well. Its light texture suits dry, normal and combination skin that need softness without a heavy after-feel. Oily or acne-prone users often get on with it too because it spreads thinly and does not leave a greasy film, though anyone dealing with stubborn breakouts caused by the yeast that triggers fungal acne may want to monitor how their skin responds since medium chain fatty acids can serve as a food source for that microorganism.

The ingredient is manufactured from plant-derived fatty acids and synthetic propylene glycol so it contains no animal material. That makes it suitable for vegetarians and vegans provided the finished product has not been tested on animals according to personal ethics.

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate has a long record of safe use in leave-on and rinse-off items and is not known to interfere with pregnancy or breast-feeding. This is general information only; expectant or nursing mothers should show the full ingredient list of any product to their healthcare provider for personalized advice.

Unlike certain exfoliating acids or essential oils this ester does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Standard daily sunscreen use is still recommended as part of overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to topical Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate can vary. The points below outline potential but uncommon side effects when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels by reputable manufacturers.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in very sensitive individuals
  • Contact dermatitis in people already allergic to propylene glycol or certain fatty acid esters
  • Temporary clogged pores or small breakouts in those highly prone to acne or fungal acne
  • Stinging if applied to broken skin or immediately after aggressive exfoliation
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes

If any discomfort or visible reaction develops stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5. Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate has a light molecular weight and spreads thinly so it is unlikely to block pores for most users. It also lacks the waxy saturated chains found in heavier esters that can trap dead cells and sebum. For these reasons it sits at the low end of the comedogenic scale.

Generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, though anyone with a history of fungal acne should monitor their skin because medium chain fatty acids can occasionally feed Malassezia yeast.

Formulation level, overall product texture and the presence of other pore-clogging ingredients will ultimately determine how “safe” a finished product is for blemish-prone skin.

Summary

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is mainly used as an emollient that smooths the skin surface fills microscopic gaps and improves spreadability. Its silky non-greasy feel lets creams and serums glide on effortlessly while limiting moisture loss.

It is a quiet workhorse: not as famous as hyaluronic acid or squalane yet you will spot it in a steady stream of moisturizers sunscreens and makeup primers because formulators appreciate its skin friendliness and light sensory profile.

Safety data show a very low risk of irritation or sensitization at typical cosmetic levels making it suitable for most skin types including sensitive and pregnancy skin. As with any new skincare ingredient a quick patch test is wise to ensure personal compatibility.

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