What Is Propylene Glycol Dilaurate?
Propylene Glycol Dilaurate is an ester created by combining propylene glycol with lauric acid, a fatty acid that occurs naturally in sources like coconut oil and palm kernel oil. The result is a waxy, lightweight ingredient that blends the moisture-binding quality of propylene glycol with the skin-softening feel of lauric acid.
Chemists began exploring fatty acid esters for personal care in the mid-20th century as consumers demanded products that felt richer yet absorbed easily. Propylene Glycol Dilaurate stood out for delivering a silky slip without a greasy afterfeel, leading to its adoption in lotions and creams during the 1970s. Modern production relies on a controlled esterification process: purified lauric acid is reacted with cosmetic-grade propylene glycol under heat and vacuum, then the mixture is filtered and refined to meet safety and purity standards.
Today you will most often see Propylene Glycol Dilaurate in moisturizers, body butters, hand creams, facial masks, anti-aging serums, makeup primers and even some hair conditioners where a smooth spread and soft finish are desired.
Propylene Glycol Dilaurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
When added to a formula Propylene Glycol Dilaurate serves two key roles that improve both the feel of a product and the way it performs on skin.
- Emollient: Creates a soft, lubricating layer that helps smooth rough or flaky areas so skin feels supple and comfortable after application
- Viscosity controlling: Adjusts thickness so creams and lotions stay stable in the jar yet glide on easily, preventing formulations from being too runny or too stiff
Who Can Use Propylene Glycol Dilaurate
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit from the softening cushion it provides while normal and combination skin appreciate its lightweight feel that sinks in without residue. Those with oily or acne-prone skin typically do not find it heavy or pore-clogging, though very reactive or highly comedogenic-sensitive users may prefer to monitor how their skin responds, especially when the ingredient appears high on an ingredient list.
Propylene Glycol Dilaurate is produced from propylene glycol and lauric acid sourced from coconut or palm kernels, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians when the manufacturer confirms plant-derived sourcing.
No data suggests the ingredient poses a special risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when used topically in cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any skincare product with their doctor to be sure it aligns with personal health circumstances.
The ester does not increase photosensitivity so there is no additional need for sun-specific precautions beyond daily sunscreen use already recommended for skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Propylene Glycol Dilaurate can vary. The effects listed below are possible yet unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is included at typical cosmetic levels.
- Mild skin irritation – slight redness or stinging may occur on extremely sensitive or compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis – rare allergic reaction presenting as rash or itching for those with specific sensitivity to propylene glycol derivatives
- Transient clogged pores – very acne-prone users might notice temporary congestion if the product is rich or layered with other occlusive ingredients
- Eye irritation – if a product accidentally gets into the eyes it can cause watering or discomfort until rinsed out
If any of these reactions develop discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 / 5
Propylene Glycol Dilaurate is derived from lauric acid, which on its own can be moderately pore clogging, yet once it is esterified with propylene glycol the molecule becomes lighter and more spreadable so it is less likely to build up inside pores. Finished formulas typically include it at low levels alongside other non occlusive ingredients, further lowering any clogging potential.
Most people prone to acne should find it acceptable, although highly reactive skin might prefer to use it in products that rinse off or appear lower on an ingredient list.
Real-world feedback shows breakouts are uncommon and usually linked to a very rich overall formula rather than this single component.
Summary
Propylene Glycol Dilaurate works mainly as an emollient and viscosity controller. It softens the skin surface by forming a thin flexible layer that reduces rough texture while its waxy yet lightweight character helps chemists fine tune the thickness of creams so they feel plush but absorb quickly.
The ingredient enjoyed more attention in the 1970s and 1980s and while newer silicone and plant ester options have since crowded the market it is still used by many brands that value its smooth slip and reliable performance.
Safety data and decades of consumer use show a very low rate of irritation or sensitization making it suitable for most skin types. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains Propylene Glycol Dilaurate especially if your skin is sensitive or acne prone.