Propylene Glycol Dioleate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Propylene Glycol Dioleate?

Propylene Glycol Dioleate is an ester made by reacting propylene glycol, a small moisture-loving alcohol, with oleic acid, the fatty acid that gives olive oil much of its rich feel. The oleic acid used today is usually sourced from plant oils such as sunflower or canola, making the ingredient largely plant-derived. First patented for personal care in the 1960s it quickly found a place in skin and hair formulas as a lighter, more stable alternative to animal fats. Manufacturing relies on a straightforward esterification process: propylene glycol and purified oleic acid are heated together in the presence of a catalyst, water is removed and the mixture is refined to yield a pale, oily liquid that is nearly odorless.

Because it softens and smooths on contact, Propylene Glycol Dioleate turns up in many leave-on and rinse-off products. You will see it listed on the back of face and body lotions, nourishing creams, night masks, lip balms, makeup foundations, hair conditioners and even gentle baby care items where a cushiony after-feel is desired.

Propylene Glycol Dioleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized for its role as an emollient. In a formula it fills the tiny gaps between skin cells or hair cuticles, creating a smooth surface that feels soft to the touch. That silky layer helps reduce moisture loss so skin stays comfortable for longer and hair looks less frizzy. Its light texture also improves the spreadability of creams and lotions which makes them feel more elegant during application.

Who Can Use Propylene Glycol Dioleate

Thanks to its light texture and non-greasy after-feel, Propylene Glycol Dioleate is generally suitable for normal, dry, combination and mature skin. Oily and acne-prone skin can also use it because the molecule is less likely to clog pores than heavier plant butters, though extremely breakout-prone users may still prefer more weightless emollients.

The ingredient is produced by joining propylene glycol with oleic acid that is almost always sourced from vegetable oils, so it is considered appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Brands that follow strict cruelty-free or vegan standards often highlight this origin on the label.

No data suggest that topical Propylene Glycol Dioleate poses special risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, yet this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run any skincare routine past a trusted healthcare provider to be on the safe side.

The ester does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be used both morning and night without raising the risk of sunburn. It is also fragrance-free and does not interfere with common active ingredients such as vitamin C or retinol.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Every skin type reacts differently, so the following list covers potential side effects that could occur with Propylene Glycol Dioleate even though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Transient stinging or redness in very sensitive skin, especially on compromised or freshly exfoliated areas
  • Mild irritation around the eyes if the product accidentally migrates into the ocular area
  • Rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis marked by itching, swelling or rash
  • Isolated reports of clogged pores in users already prone to cosmetic acne

If any uncomfortable reaction develops stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional for personalised guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Propylene Glycol Dioleate earns a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. The propylene glycol backbone is non-comedogenic while the oleic acid portions add a slight tendency to sit in pores, yet the finished ester is lighter and more mobile than pure oils so it rarely builds up enough to trigger widespread congestion.

This low score means it is generally suitable even for skin that tends to break out, although those with very stubborn acne may prefer completely oil-free textures.

Keep in mind that the final likelihood of clogged pores depends on the product’s full formula and how heavily it is applied.

Summary

Propylene Glycol Dioleate is used mainly as an emollient that smooths the skin surface, reduces moisture loss and improves the slip of creams and conditioners. It performs these roles by nestling between skin cells to reinforce the natural lipid barrier while its light oily feel helps products spread without heaviness.

The ingredient is moderately popular: not as ubiquitous as classic plant oils yet common in midrange moisturizers, hair care and baby products where a soft non-greasy finish is wanted.

Overall safety is high with only occasional reports of mild irritation or pore clogging. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a product before full-face use to be extra cautious.

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