Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer?

Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer is a man-made ingredient created by linking together three simpler building blocks: propylene glycol, sebacic acid and trimellitic anhydride. Propylene glycol is a small alcohol often used to carry moisture, sebacic acid comes from castor oil and adds flexibility, while trimellitic anhydride is a ring-shaped molecule that helps everything bond firmly. Chemists combine these components through controlled heating and mixing, triggering a reaction that joins them into long repeating chains known as a copolymer. The result is a smooth, clear material that can spread thinly over skin or hair and then set into a flexible layer.

This copolymer first gained attention in the late 1990s when formulators were looking for new ways to improve the staying power of makeup without using heavy waxes. Its ability to form a breathable film quickly made it popular in long-wear foundations, liquid lipsticks, eyeliners and waterproof mascaras. Today you may also spot it in sunscreens, peel-off masks, hair styling gels and some anti-aging serums where it helps active ingredients stay in place.

Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In personal care products the main job of Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer is to act as a film former. After application it dries into a thin flexible layer that clings to skin or hair. This film helps makeup resist smudging and fading, keeps sunscreen from rinsing off too quickly and locks styling products onto strands for longer hold. It can also give formulas a smoother feel during application and leave a soft finish once dry.

Who Can Use Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer

This film forming polymer is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Oily and acne prone skin tend to like it because it is lightweight, non greasy and does not feed breakouts. Dry or mature skin can also use it since it has no stripping action and helps keep makeup in place over moisturizers. Very sensitive or eczema-prone skin might feel tightness or mild irritation if a thick layer is left on for long periods, so those users may prefer lighter formulas or limited wear time.

The ingredient is produced from propylene glycol, sebacic acid derived from castor oil and trimellitic anhydride, none of which come from animals. Because no animal by-products are used, it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No specific warnings exist for pregnancy or breastfeeding. The large polymer molecules sit on the surface rather than being absorbed, making systemic exposure unlikely. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full product list to a doctor before use to be extra safe.

Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer does not increase photosensitivity and will not make skin more likely to burn in the sun. It can actually help sunscreen stay on longer by forming a water-resistant layer.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions can vary from person to person. The points below cover possible side effects but most users experience none of them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-made product.

  • Mild skin irritation or redness, especially on very sensitive areas
  • Contact dermatitis in people allergic to one of the starting materials
  • Eye stinging if the product runs into the eyes before it sets
  • Temporary clogged pores or tiny bumps if the film is not fully removed at the end of the day
  • Dry or tight feeling on skin when a high level is used in long-wear formulas

If you experience any of the effects listed above stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5. Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer is a large, water-dispersible polymer that sits on the surface rather than soaking into pores, and it contains no heavy oils or waxes that typically trigger breakouts. A trace amount of propylene glycol may remain free in a formula, which is why the score is not a perfect zero.

Because it is lightweight and forms a breathable film, most people who are prone to acne can use products containing this ingredient without fear of new blemishes.

Clogging is more likely only if the film is layered over very rich creams or not removed fully at night, so thorough cleansing helps keep the risk minimal.

Summary

Propylene Glycol/Sebacic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer is mainly a film former. It dries into a thin flexible layer that anchors makeup, sunscreen and styling products so they last longer, resist smudging and stay water resistant. Its popularity jumped with the rise of long-wear cosmetics in the late 1990s and it still appears in many liquid lipsticks, foundations, mascaras and some hair gels, though it is not as widely discussed as newer silicone or plant-based polymers.

Overall safety is high because the large molecules remain on the surface and the raw materials have well-established safety profiles. Irritation or allergy is uncommon and mostly linked to individual sensitivity. As with any new product it is smart to patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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