Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract?

Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient obtained from the leaves of the winter-flowering cherry tree, a member of the rose family. The leaves are rich in natural sugars, flavonoids and mild acids that help retain moisture and soothe the skin. Traditional Japanese and Korean beauty routines have long valued cherry leaf infusions for their calming feel, and modern formulators picked up on this folk use in the early 2000s when the clean beauty movement began seeking gentle botanical alternatives to synthetic skin soothers.

To create the extract, freshly harvested leaves are washed, finely milled then soaked in a mixture of water and glycerin or propanediol. This pulls the skin-loving molecules into the liquid. After filtration the solution is concentrated and preserved, resulting in a clear to pale amber fluid that blends easily into both water-based and emulsion formulas.

You will most often spot Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract tucked into hydrating sheet masks, daily moisturizers, lightweight serums, after-sun gels and anti-aging creams where an extra boost of calm hydration is desired.

Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized for one main role within skincare formulations.

As a skin-conditioning agent, Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract helps keep the skin soft, smooth and comfortably hydrated. Its natural humectants draw water to the surface layers while flavonoids provide a mild antioxidant effect that can support the skin’s barrier over time. The overall result is a formula that feels soothing on application and leaves the complexion looking fresh and supple.

Who Can Use Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract

This extract is gentle enough for nearly all skin types. Normal, dry, combination and sensitive complexions often appreciate its lightweight hydration and calming feel. Oily and blemish-prone skin can usually tolerate it too because it is water soluble and leaves no greasy residue, though those who react poorly to botanical ingredients in general should monitor how their skin responds.

Because the extract is obtained exclusively from cherry tree leaves and involves no animal-derived substances or animal testing in its preparation, it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety data raise no red flags for use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said, this information is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before starting a new skincare product to be extra certain it aligns with their individual needs.

The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not regarded as photosensitising. As with any botanical, however, quality and purity matter, so look for well-formulated products from reputable brands.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract vary from person to person. The effects listed below are simply possibilities and are unlikely to occur for most users when the ingredient has been correctly formulated and preserved.

  • Mild skin irritation such as itching or stinging
  • Redness or a transient warm sensation on application
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to cherry or other Rosaceae family plants
  • Rare delayed hypersensitivity presenting as small bumps or a rash

If any negative reaction develops, stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 – 1 (virtually non-comedogenic)

Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract is a water-based botanical with minimal oils or waxes, so it does not create the kind of occlusive film that typically traps sebum and debris inside pores. Its main constituents are sugars, flavonoids and gentle acids, all of which dissolve easily in water and rinse away cleanly. For these reasons it sits at the lowest end of the comedogenic scale.

Because it is unlikely to clog pores, the extract is generally considered suitable for skin that is prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

Formulators sometimes pair the extract with heavier emollients; if a product containing it feels rich or greasy the overall formula, not the extract itself, could still contribute to congestion.

Summary

Prunus Subhirtella Ascendens Leaf Extract’s chief role is skin conditioning. Natural humectants draw in moisture, flavonoids offer light antioxidant support and the mixture of soothing compounds calms irritated areas, leaving skin soft supple and refreshed. It has gained quiet popularity in hydrating serums, sheet masks and after-sun gels, especially within K-beauty circles, though it remains less mainstream than powerhouse botanicals like green tea or aloe.

Current research and industry data show the extract to be low-risk for irritation, non-phototoxic and compatible with vegan formulating standards. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test the finished product before full-face use to make sure your individual skin responds well.

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