Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract?

Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract comes from the stems of the red sandalwood tree, a slow-growing hardwood native to the dry forests of southern India. The wood has long been prized for its deep crimson hue and pleasant natural scent, both of which hint at the rich mix of plant compounds inside. The extract is especially high in flavonoids and phenolic acids, molecules known for their ability to bind to proteins and smooth rough surfaces. Traditional craftsmen once boiled red sandalwood chips in water to tint fabrics; that same water-based method was later adapted for beauty use. Today manufacturers grind the sustainably harvested stems, soak the powder in a mix of water and food-grade solvents, then filter and concentrate the liquid to produce a stable cosmetic extract. You will most often spot it in rinse-off and leave-in hair masks, creamy conditioners, lightweight serums and multi-benefit styling sprays where it partners with oils and silicones to give hair a soft glossy feel.

Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This extract is valued in formulations for one key reason: hair conditioning. By forming a thin film along the hair shaft the flavonoid-rich fluid helps seal lifted cuticles, reducing friction so strands feel smoother and tangle less easily. Regular use can improve shine, manage flyaways and give damaged hair a more polished appearance without weighing it down.

Who Can Use Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract

Because it is a plant based conditioning agent with no known pore clogging components, Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract is generally considered suitable for all scalp and hair types, including oily, dry, normal and even sensitive skin around the hairline. People with a history of allergies to legumes or woods should still proceed with extra caution, as rare cross reactions can occur.

The extract is 100 percent botanical and produced without animal derivatives so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian values.

No data suggest that topical use poses a risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, yet this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should always run any personal care product past a qualified healthcare professional to be on the safe side.

The ingredient does not make skin or hair more prone to sunburn, and there are no other special lifestyle restrictions linked to its use.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects that could occur, though most users will not experience any of them when the ingredient is used properly in a finished product.

  • Mild scalp redness or itching – usually transient and linked to individual sensitivity
  • Contact dermatitis – uncommon but possible in people allergic to legume family plants or certain wood resins
  • Unwanted tinting on very light or porous hair – the natural red pigment can cling to bleached strands giving a subtle warm cast
  • Eye irritation – may occur if concentrated product accidentally enters the eyes

If any discomfort, discoloration or irritation develops while using the extract or a product containing it, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5 (non-comedogenic)

Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract is largely composed of water-soluble flavonoids and phenolic acids that do not leave heavy oily residues on skin or scalp, so it does not block pores. As a result this extract is generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts. Because it is used at low levels, usually in rinse-off or lightweight leave-in formulas, any residual film is too thin to trap sebum or dead cells.

No reports suggest it aggravates fungal acne, and its natural pigments are not known to oxidize in pores the way some oils can, making it a low-risk choice for blemish-prone users.

Summary

Pterocarpus Santalinus Stem Extract is a plant-based hair conditioner that smooths cuticles, reduces tangles, boosts shine and helps tame flyaways by laying a light botanical film along the hair shaft. Though not a mainstream superstar like argan oil or keratin, it has a quiet following in eco-focused lines that value vegan and sustainably sourced ingredients.

Overall safety is high: the extract is non-comedogenic, non-photosensitising and rarely irritates, with only isolated allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. As with any new cosmetic, it is wise to patch test a product containing this ingredient before full use to be sure your skin and scalp stay comfortable.

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