What Is Quaternium-87?
Quaternium-87 is a quaternary ammonium compound made by reacting fatty acids from natural oils such as coconut or tallow with an imidazoline ring, then quaternizing the resulting molecule with methyl sulfate. The finished ingredient carries a positive charge that helps it bond to negatively charged hair and skin surfaces. Quats like this entered personal care in the 1950s as gentler alternatives to harsh soaps, and their conditioning ability soon made them staples in hair care. Today Quaternium-87 is manufactured in large batches under controlled pH and temperature to ensure purity, then blended into formulas as a water-soluble liquid or paste. You will most often see it in rinse-off and leave-in conditioners, creamy shampoos, co-wash cleansers, hair masks, smoothing serums and styling creams where softness and manageability are priorities.
Quaternium-87’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient improves both the cleansing phase and the finishing feel of hair care products
- Cleansing: Its cationic nature helps lift away dirt and product buildup while reducing static so hair feels clean yet not stripped
- Hair Conditioning: Forms a light film on the hair shaft that smooths the cuticle, boosts slip for easier detangling and leaves strands soft shiny and less prone to breakage
Who Can Use Quaternium-87
Because it is water soluble and lightweight, Quaternium-87 is generally suitable for all hair and skin types including oily, dry and combination. People with very sensitive or compromised scalps may prefer milder conditioning agents since the cationic charge can occasionally feel too coating on fragile skin.
The fatty acids used to make Quaternium-87 often come from animal tallow though many suppliers now offer coconut or other plant-derived versions. If a formula does not specify a vegetable source vegans and vegetarians may want to contact the brand for confirmation.
Current research shows no specific risks for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Quaternium-87 is used topically and rinsed off. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should still have their healthcare provider review all personal care products to be extra safe.
The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin or hair more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with most other cosmetic actives meaning you can layer it with color treatments, proteins or silicones without worry.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Quaternium-87 vary from person to person. The points below list potential effects only. When used at the low levels found in finished products most users will not notice any problems.
- Mild scalp or skin irritation
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to quaternary ammonium compounds
- Eye stinging if product accidentally drips into the eyes
- Build-up leading to limp hair when used in very high concentrations or without proper rinsing
If any discomfort or allergic response occurs stop using the product and consult a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Quaternium-87 is water soluble and non-oily so it does not linger inside pores or create the kind of occlusive film that encourages blackheads. Its positive charge helps it rinse away cleanly which further limits pore blockage. Because of this low likelihood of clogging pores it is generally considered safe for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
While rare, buildup can occur if a very heavy leave-in product containing multiple film formers is layered day after day. A periodic clarifying shampoo will prevent any potential congestion.
Summary
Quaternium-87 acts as both a mild cleanser and an effective conditioner. The molecule’s positive charge seeks out the negatively charged surface of hair where it lifts away grime then lays down a thin smoothing layer that boosts slip, shine and strength. Its dual action means formulators can reduce harsher surfactants while still delivering soft manageable results.
The ingredient is common in salon and drugstore conditioners though it is not as famous as silicone or keratin. Its balanced performance and compatibility with most actives keep it popular among chemists who want reliable detangling without heavy buildup.
Current safety data shows Quaternium-87 to be low risk when used as directed with only occasional mild irritation reported. As with any new personal care product it is wise to carry out a quick patch test before full use just to be safe.