If you keep even a casual eye on Spanish pharmacy shelves MartiDerm is probably already on your radar, prized for its science forward ampoules and quietly elegant formulas. For everyone else consider this your nudge to pay attention to a brand that rarely shouts yet consistently shows up with thoughtful skincare backed by solid research.
Their latest jar comes with a title worthy of a sci fi novella: Black Diamond Epigence 145 Sleeping Cream. The mouthful certainly suggests something precious and high tech, which fits MartiDerm’s promise of overnight support for collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production while wrapping skin in a comforting, enriched texture.
In short the company says you can look forward to firmer, more supple skin with fewer visible wrinkles after letting the cream do its selective release magic while you sleep. Application instructions are straightforward: a spatula scoop nightly over face, neck and neckline followed by a gentle massage until it disappears.
I lived with the cream for a solid two weeks, giving it every bedtime slot and paying attention to how my skin felt and looked the next morning to see whether this diamond is worth its price tag.
Disclaimer: This review is not sponsored or paid in any way. All observations are my own, based on personal use, and individual results can differ depending on skin type, routine and expectations.
What Is Black Diamond Epigence 145 Sleeping Cream?
This is an overnight treatment, a type of skincare you apply before bed so it can work during the hours when skin naturally shifts into repair mode. Overnight formulas tend to be richer than daytime moisturizers because they are meant to sit on the skin for several uninterrupted hours, giving active ingredients time to penetrate without interference from sun, sweat or makeup.
Epigence 145 Sleeping Cream fits squarely in that category. MartiDerm positions it as a night cream that supports the skin’s own renewal cycle by delivering a measured dose of peptides, hyaluronic acid and soothing lipids while you sleep. According to the brand the formula aims to encourage fresh collagen and elastin, bind extra moisture and calm any evening tightness or irritation. The result, at least on paper, should be a firmer more supple complexion with softened lines and an overall rested look by morning.
The cream is intended for nightly use on face neck and décolletage, applied with the included spatula then massaged until absorbed. Its texture is described as enriched which translates to a thicker cushion that lingers slightly on the surface before settling in.
Did It Work?
In the name of rigorous skincare journalism I benched my usual overnight treatment for three full days before starting the test run, how very scientific of me. I then committed to Epigence 145 every night for a straight fourteen days, which feels like a fair window to spot at least short term shifts in hydration, comfort and overall bounce.
Application was consistent: a small spatula scoop warmed between fingertips then pressed over face, neck and a token swipe across the neckline. The cream is plush yet not greasy, sitting on the skin for a minute before settling into a velvety film. The first morning my skin felt superbly cushioned, that post facial softness you want to keep touching, though visually nothing dramatic had happened. By the fourth night I noticed less of the faint tightness I sometimes get after cleansing and my cheeks looked subtly plumper on waking, a nice early win.
Week one closed without any surprise congestion which is always my top concern with richer formulas. The finish did leave a slight shine that lingered through breakfast, worth noting if you prefer a matte morning canvas. Otherwise the experience was quietly pleasant: no tingling, no fragrance hangover, just steady overnight nourishment.
The second week is where I hoped for the big collagen-elasticity reveal. Skin tone did look a bit more even, dehydration lines around my mouth appeared shallower and makeup sat more smoothly. Still, the promised firmer contour stayed elusive. My jawline did not feel measurably tighter and the fine lines at my forehead seemed unchanged. In bright bathroom lighting those first few hours of post application glow read as bounce but by late afternoon my complexion looked much like it did pre test.
After fourteen nights I can confirm the cream delivers reliable hydration and a comforting barrier, it smooths texture enough to earn quick confidence points and it never irritated my sometimes reactive skin. What it did not deliver, at least for me, was a standout lift or wrinkle softening that would justify permanent residency on my shelf, especially at its premium price. I will happily finish the jar during colder months yet I will likely return to my previous night formula once it is empty.
Main Ingredients Explained
The formula leans heavily on a trio of lab-engineered peptides: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate and Copper Heptapeptide-14 Pantothenate. Together they are tasked with nudging skin cells to step up collagen and elastin production, essentially giving your overnight repair crew a pep talk. Peptides have a solid evidence trail for improving firmness over time, though you normally need several weeks to see their full potential so my two-week window may have been too short for a dramatic lift.
Hyaluronic acid shows up in two molecular sizes, one standard and one nano. The larger molecules sit near the surface to create that cushioned feel I noticed on morning one while the smaller fragments aim to pull water deeper for longer-lasting plumpness. Glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride and dicapryl ether round out the humectant and emollient squad, forming a soft occlusive film that keeps trans-epidermal water loss in check.
Soothing support comes from glycyrrhetinic acid, a derivative of licorice that calms redness, and batyl alcohol, a naturally occurring lipid that strengthens the barrier. Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) adds antioxidant backup against environmental stress.
On the comedogenic front the pot includes cetyl alcohol, stearic acid and glyceryl stearate. These rank low to moderate on the comedogenic scale meaning they can occasionally clog pores in very oil-prone skin. Comedogenic simply refers to an ingredient’s likelihood of blocking follicles which can lead to blackheads or breakouts so patch testing is smart if you are acne-prone.
The ingredient list is free of animal-derived components to the best of my knowledge so vegetarians and likely vegans can use it with reasonable confidence, though MartiDerm does not carry an official vegan certification. Pregnant or nursing readers should run the formula past a healthcare professional before introducing it; while there are no retinoids or known endocrine disruptors here personal medical advice always trumps a magazine review.
Fragrance and CI 16255 (a red dye) sit near the end of the deck which could pose a sensitivity risk for ultra reactive skin. The silicone base (cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone) contributes to the elegant slip and temporary blurring effect yet rinses cleanly without suffocating pores. All told the ingredient list reads like a thoughtful blend of modern peptides, classic moisturizers and a few pampering extras, just be aware of the potential for mild pore congestion if you are oily or fragrance-averse.
What I Liked/Didn’t Like
Here is the straightforward rundown after two weeks of nightly use.
What Works Well:
- Velvety texture feels rich on application yet sinks in without leaving a greasy film
- Delivers a noticeable cushion of hydration that lasts through the night and makes morning skin feel freshly plumped
- Peptide and hyaluronic acid blend offers solid science backed ingredients without causing irritation or congestion
- Subtle clean scent fades quickly which keeps the ritual pleasant but unobtrusive
What to Consider:
- Lifting and wrinkle softening benefits stayed mild within a two week window so visible firming may take longer or remain modest
- Slight morning sheen could bother those with oil prone skin who prefer a matte finish
- Sits at a premium price point that may feel high for a product delivering mostly hydration in the short term
My Final Thoughts
Black Diamond Epigence 145 Sleeping Cream landed solidly in the good-but-not-life-changing column after fourteen nights. Hydration, comfort and a faint morning glow are genuine, the sci-fi promise of visibly tighter contours less so, at least in my two-week window. I have cycled through enough overnight formulas to know that true firming usually needs a month or two, yet other peptide creams have surprised me faster, which tempers my enthusiasm. On my personal scale that nets a respectable 7/10: worthwhile if plush moisture is your priority, less compelling if you are chasing a facelift in a jar.
Who will love it? Normal to slightly dry skins that crave a cocoon of moisture without waking up to pillow-case grease. Sensitive types should also fare well given the calm, fragrance-light formula. Who may shrug? Oily complexions wanting a matte dawn, budget hunters or anyone expecting dramatic lifting before the next phone upgrade cycle. I would recommend it to a friend who fits that first group and has the coin to spare, though I would gently mention that a solid ceramide cream from the pharmacy might quench their skin nearly as well for fewer bills.
If you would rather audition other night-time leads, a few standouts I have emptied more than once deserve a look. Nocturnal Revive Cream by Deascal is the dependable all-rounder I reach for when my skin cannot decide what it wants; it covers hydration, barrier support and a dash of brightening at a friendlier price. For a silky peptide boost Bouncy & Firm Sleeping Mask by LANEIGE delivers overnight springiness in a lighter gel-cream format. Fans of retinoids who still want a comforting texture could explore Resurgence Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream by Murad which gives gradual smoothing without the textbook flake. If your main wish is intensive repair after a day in city fumes Smart Clinical Repair Overnight Recovery Cream by Clinique brings serious moisture and a peptide-charged rebound by morning.
Before setting any new cream loose on your face remember a few basics (forgive me for going full parent mode). Patch test behind the ear or on the jaw for a couple of nights, monitor for redness or bumps and only then upgrade to full-face status. Keep in mind that plumpness you see on day two is mostly water retention and will fade once you stop using the product, so consistency is key if you want to keep the gains. Finally listen to your skin over the marketing copy; it is usually the better scientist.