Rh-Polypeptide-87: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Rh-Polypeptide-87?

Rh-Polypeptide-87 is a lab-engineered version of the p35 subunit of interleukin-12, a naturally occurring protein found in human skin. Scientists recreate this short chain of amino acids through recombinant fermentation, usually in yeast or cultured bacteria. After the microorganisms produce the raw peptide, it is carefully purified, filtered and stabilized for topical use. Interest in bio-identical peptides grew in the late 1990s when researchers discovered their ability to signal skin cells, leading formulators to incorporate them into anti-aging and repair products. Today Rh-Polypeptide-87 appears in lightweight serums, firming creams, sheet masks and targeted eye treatments where brands want a sophisticated yet gentle skin-conditioning agent.

Rh-Polypeptide-87’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare formulas Rh-Polypeptide-87 serves one clear purpose: skin conditioning. By mimicking native skin proteins it helps support a healthy moisture balance, leaving the surface feeling smoother, softer and more supple. This conditioning effect can also improve overall texture and lend a refreshed look, which is why the ingredient is popular in products aimed at tired or mature complexions.

Who Can Use Rh-Polypeptide-87

Rh-Polypeptide-87 is considered gentle enough for most skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive because it focuses on conditioning rather than exfoliating or deeply stimulating the skin. Those with extremely reactive or compromised skin barriers should still proceed cautiously, as any new ingredient can sometimes trigger irritation when the barrier is already weakened.

The peptide is produced through fermentation in yeast or bacteria and no animal-derived substances are required at any stage, so products featuring Rh-Polypeptide-87 are typically suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full ingredient list, though, since other components in a final formula could be animal based.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women regarding topical Rh-Polypeptide-87, but data on its use in these groups is limited. This content is not medical advice; anyone who is expecting or nursing should consult a healthcare provider before adding new skincare to their routine, just to be on the safe side.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so it can be used morning or night without raising the risk of sun-induced irritation. Standard daytime SPF use is still recommended whenever you are exposed to sunlight.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Rh-Polypeptide-87 vary from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions, though most users will not experience any negative issues when products are well formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or flushing
  • Temporary itching or tingling at the application site
  • Localized dryness or tightness if used in an overly astringent formula
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis for individuals sensitive to the peptide or preserving agents in the product
  • Stinging when applied to broken or freshly shaved skin

If any discomfort, persistent redness or swelling occurs discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rh-Polypeptide-87 has a comedogenic rating of 0. As a small water-soluble peptide it does not contain heavy oils or waxes that can clog pores. Instead it sits lightly on the skin surface or absorbs quickly, leaving no residue that would trap dead cells or sebum. For this reason it is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

Because the peptide is usually added at very low concentrations and is not occlusive, it does not interfere with normal oil flow even in humid climates. The only time pore congestion might occur is if the product pairs the peptide with richer emollients that have higher comedogenic scores, so always look at the full ingredient list when choosing a formula.

Summary

Rh-Polypeptide-87 is a lab-crafted copy of the p35 piece of interleukin-12. Its main job in skincare is simple: condition the skin by helping it hold on to moisture and by sending friendly signals to surface cells so they stay smooth and flexible. Thanks to these traits it can make the skin feel softer and look fresher without causing irritation.

The peptide pops up in modern serums, creams and eye gels but it is still a niche addition rather than a household name. Brands that focus on high-tech or dermatologist-inspired formulas reach for it more often than drugstore lines.

Overall safety is considered high because the molecule is gentle, used at low levels and made without animal products. Side effects are rare yet every skin is unique, so it is always wise to patch test a new product for a couple of days before applying it to the entire face.

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