What Is Ricinoleamide Dea?
Ricinoleamide Dea, also written as [R-(Z)]-12-Hydroxy-N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-9-octadecenamide, is a derivative of castor oil. Castor oil is rich in ricinoleic acid, and chemists transform that fatty acid by reacting it with diethanolamine. The result is a surfactant that combines an oily backbone with water-loving groups, giving it a balanced character that works well in personal care products.
The ingredient started to appear in shampoos and bubble baths in the late 1960s when formulators were looking for plant-based alternatives to animal tallow derivatives. Its mildness and ability to improve foam quickly made it a regular feature in cleansing products.
Commercial production begins with purified castor oil. The oil is split to isolate ricinoleic acid, which is then reacted with diethanolamine under controlled heat. After purification, the finished material is a yellowish viscous liquid that blends smoothly into water-based systems.
Today you will most often find Ricinoleamide Dea in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, bubble baths and liquid hand soaps. Some leave-on hair conditioners and styling creams also use it to keep static away and to thicken the formula.
Ricinoleamide Dea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Ricinoleamide Dea brings several practical advantages that help formulators create gentle yet effective products.
- Antistatic: Coats hair fibers and reduces the buildup of electrical charge so hair is easier to comb and less prone to flyaways.
- Cleansing: Acts as a mild surfactant that lifts dirt, oil and product residue from skin and hair without harshness.
- Foam Boosting: Enhances the volume and stability of foam, giving shampoos and body washes a rich lather that consumers associate with good cleaning power.
- Viscosity Controlling: Thickens water-based formulas, allowing brands to achieve a luxuriant, easy-to-dispense texture without heavy synthetic thickeners.
Who Can Use Ricinoleamide Dea
Because it is generally mild and noncomedogenic, Ricinoleamide Dea suits most skin types including dry, oily and combination. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well thanks to its low irritation potential, though anyone with a known allergy to castor oil derivatives should proceed cautiously.
The ingredient is plant derived from castor oil and diethanolamine, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are used at any stage of manufacture.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Ricinoleamide Dea is used as directed in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all personal care products with a qualified healthcare provider.
Ricinoleamide Dea does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with common photo-sensitising medications. It is fragrance free and carries only a faint fatty scent, so it seldom conflicts with added perfumes or essential oils in finished formulas.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can vary widely. The issues listed below are possible yet uncommon when Ricinoleamide Dea is used in properly formulated products.
- Mild skin irritation – temporary redness or itching, typically in people with highly reactive skin
- Contact dermatitis – rare allergic reaction, more likely in individuals already sensitised to castor oil constituents
- Eye irritation – stinging or watering if undiluted product accidentally enters the eyes
- Build-up on hair – very heavy use in leave-on products can weigh hair down in fine hair types
Discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if any persistent or severe reaction occurs.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Ricinoleamide Dea is primarily a water-soluble surfactant with a lightweight molecular structure, so it does not readily clog pores like heavier plant oils or waxes. Trace fatty residues could, in theory, accumulate when used at high levels in leave-on products, but standard cleanser concentrations rinse cleanly from skin.
Suitable for acne-prone skin, including those who experience frequent breakouts.
Because the ingredient is usually part of rinse-off formulas, the risk of pore blockage is even lower than its rating suggests.
Summary
Ricinoleamide Dea acts as an antistatic agent that smooths hair cuticles, a mild cleanser that lifts oil and dirt, a foam booster that creates a rich lather and a viscosity controller that thickens watery blends for a pleasing texture. It achieves this mix of duties by pairing an oil-like castor backbone with water-loving ethanolamine groups, letting it sit at the interface between oil and water inside a formula.
While not a headline ingredient, it remains a quiet workhorse in everyday shampoos, body washes and liquid hand soaps where dependable foam and silky rinse-off are needed. Its plant origin also keeps it in favor with brands looking for vegan alternatives to animal-derived surfactants.
Overall safety data rate Ricinoleamide Dea as low risk, with only occasional mild irritation reported. As with any new cosmetic product, performing a small patch test before regular use is a smart precaution, especially for those with sensitive skin.