Sesamide Dea: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sesamide Dea?

Sesamide Dea is an ingredient made by reacting the natural fatty acids found in sesame oil with diethanolamine. The result is an amide that looks like a thick, pale liquid and blends easily with water. Since sesame oil has long been valued for its gentle nature, chemists began modifying it in the late twentieth century to give cleansers better lather without adding harshness. This is how Sesamide Dea entered the cosmetic scene, first appearing in shampoos and body washes that needed rich foam and a silky feel.

Today manufacturers create Sesamide Dea in large kettles where purified sesame oil is heated with diethanolamine until the two bond. The finished material is filtered, cooled and tested for purity before being shipped to cosmetic labs. Because it mixes well with other surfactants and helps thicken watery bases, you will most often find it in shampoos, bubble baths, facial cleansers, body washes, liquid hand soaps, shaving creams and the occasional clay or gel mask that benefits from extra creaminess.

Sesamide Dea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Sesamide Dea serves several key roles that improve texture, performance and skin feel.

  • Cleansing: Lifts away dirt, oil and buildup so skin and hair feel fresh without being stripped
  • Foam Boosting: Builds a dense, lasting lather that makes products more enjoyable to use and helps spread active ingredients evenly
  • Viscosity Controlling: Thickens watery mixes so shampoos, washes and masks have a rich cushiony body that stays put during application

Who Can Use Sesamide Dea

Most skin types tolerate Sesamide Dea because it comes from a gentle plant oil and is used at low concentrations. Normal, oily and combination skin usually see no issues. Very sensitive or compromised skin might notice mild redness if cleansers sit on the skin too long, so rinsing well is key.

The ingredient is sourced from sesame seeds and synthetic diethanolamine, with no animal derivatives, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians provided the full formula is cruelty free.

Current cosmetic regulations allow Sesamide Dea in products for pregnant or breastfeeding women, and the ingredient has low skin penetration. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare or haircare products.

Sesamide Dea is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with most common actives and preservatives, making it a versatile option in routine layering.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Sesamide Dea depend on a person’s individual sensitivities and the overall formula. The points below outline potential though uncommon side effects when the ingredient is used correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, more likely on very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to sesame or diethanolamine derivatives
  • Eye stinging if a concentrated cleanser or shampoo accidentally enters the eyes
  • Scalp buildup or heaviness in hair when used in high-foaming shampoos that are not rinsed thoroughly
  • Formation of trace nitrosamines if the finished product is stored improperly or mixed with strong nitrosating agents, a risk minimized by responsible formulators

If you experience any of the above effects stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. Sesamide Dea is a water-miscible surfactant that is usually used in rinse-off cleansers at low levels, so it spends little time on skin and is readily removed with water. Its molecular structure is larger and more polar than plain sesame oil, which lowers its chance of lodging inside pores. Because of this, people who are prone to acne or breakouts generally tolerate it well. The only time clogging might occur is if a formula is left on the skin for prolonged periods or combined with heavy occlusives.

Summary

Sesamide Dea acts as a cleanser, foam booster and viscosity controller. It lifts away grime while creating rich lather and thickening watery bases so products feel luxurious. Although it is not a headline ingredient, formulators like it for the consistent silky foam it gives to shampoos, body washes and facial cleansers.

Current safety data shows low irritation potential when used within recommended limits, and serious reactions are rare. As with any new product it is wise to patch test first to ensure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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