Sh-Polypeptide-128: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Polypeptide-128?

Sh-Polypeptide-128 is a lab made version of a small part of the human telomerase protein, crafted as a single chain of 70 amino acids. Scientists copy the gene that tells our bodies how to build this section of telomerase, then insert that gene into friendly E. coli bacteria. As the bacteria grow they churn out the peptide, which is later purified and checked for quality. Because it is made through fermentation instead of taken from animals, the process is considered reliable and more sustainable.

The idea of using pieces of telomerase in skin care grew from research on how telomerase helps keep cells looking and acting young. Over time peptide technology became easier to scale for cosmetics, leading formulators to explore Sh-Polypeptide-128 as a skin protecting helper in creams and serums. Today you will mainly see it in leave-on treatments aimed at guarding the skin barrier, soothing masks, anti-aging lotions and high performance moisturizers.

Sh-Polypeptide-128’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This peptide is prized for one key role in skin care formulations.

As a skin protecting agent Sh-Polypeptide-128 supports the skin’s natural defense layer, helping it hold on to moisture and stay resilient against daily stress like pollution and weather changes. By keeping the outer barrier intact it can make the complexion feel smoother, look healthier and better tolerate active ingredients that might otherwise cause dryness or irritation.

Who Can Use Sh-Polypeptide-128

Because it is lightweight and non greasy Sh-Polypeptide-128 suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its barrier supporting action is especially welcome for sensitive or mature skin that needs extra cushioning. There are no known reasons it would be unsuitable for acne prone skin either, as it is not occlusive and does not feed surface bacteria.

The peptide is produced by fermenting a lab made gene in E. coli then purifying the finished material, so no animal tissue is involved at any step. This makes it an ingredient that is compatible with vegan and vegetarian preferences, provided the finished formula also avoids animal derived additives.

Current research offers no specific warnings for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Still, hormonal shifts can make skin more reactive and ingredient safety data in these groups is often limited. This is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing individuals should confirm any new skincare product with their health professional.

Sh-Polypeptide-128 does not absorb UV light and is not known to make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended as part of a complete routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet unlikely when Sh-Polypeptide-128 is formulated and used properly.

  • Mild redness or warmth in very sensitive skin
  • Transient itching or tingling as the product settles
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as rash or swelling
  • Stinging when applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin

If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Sh-Polypeptide-128 is a water-based peptide with no oils, waxes or fatty alcohols that could clog pores. It stays on the skin surface to support the barrier rather than sinking into sebaceous follicles, so it carries virtually no risk of triggering blackheads or whiteheads. This makes it a comfortable choice for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Because the peptide is used at very low concentrations and is typically paired with lightweight carriers, it remains non occlusive even in richer formulas.

As with any ingredient, the overall pore-friendliness of the finished product also depends on the other components in the formula.

Summary

Sh-Polypeptide-128 is a lab crafted fragment of the human telomerase protein that acts primarily as a skin protectant. By reinforcing the outer barrier it helps skin hold moisture, stay resilient against stress and feel calmer when exposed to harsh weather or potent actives. It does this without adding heaviness or oil, making it suitable for nearly every skin type including sensitive and acne-prone.

While peptides as a group have grown popular, this specific one is still a niche player found mainly in high-end serums and moisturizers aimed at barrier support and early aging concerns. Limited but reassuring safety data plus its vegan friendly production keep it appealing to formulators seeking gentle performance ingredients.

Overall Sh-Polypeptide-128 is considered very safe when used in topically applied cosmetics. Still, skin can react unpredictably so it is smart to do a quick patch test whenever you bring a new product into your routine.

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