Sh-Polypeptide-38: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Polypeptide-38?

Sh-Polypeptide-38 is a lab-created version of human Interferon Gamma, a naturally occurring protein that helps the skin communicate and stay balanced. Scientists start by designing a gene that matches the human one exactly, then insert it into friendly strains of E. coli. Inside the bacteria the gene acts like a set of instructions, telling the cells to build the peptide from the standard 20 amino acids. After fermentation the peptide is purified, checked for safety and shaped into a single chain that may fold on itself with small disulfide links or carry light sugar groups.

The idea of borrowing messenger proteins from our own bodies for beauty care grew in the early 2000s when advances in biotechnology lowered costs and raised purity standards. Makers noticed that peptides similar to those found in skin could signal cells to look and act younger, so formulators began adding them to anti-aging creams and targeted treatments. Because Sh-Polypeptide-38 mimics a natural skin regulator it soon joined the roster of modern actives.

Today you will most often see Sh-Polypeptide-38 in serums, sheet masks, rich moisturizers and specialty eye or neck products that aim to boost firmness or soothe stressed skin. Its clear water-soluble nature lets brands slot it into lightweight gels or creamy emulsions without changing texture or scent.

Sh-Polypeptide-38’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is valued mainly for one key action in topical formulas: skin conditioning. By echoing signals normally sent by Interferon Gamma it helps skin cells stay organized and responsive, leading to a surface that feels smoother and looks more even. Over time well-conditioned skin can better retain moisture and bounce back from daily stress which supports a healthier complexion overall.

Who Can Use Sh-Polypeptide-38

Because it is water based and free of heavy oils or fragrances Sh-Polypeptide-38 suits most skin types including dry, normal, oily and mature skin. Sensitive skin users often tolerate it well but anyone with an already damaged or highly reactive barrier may want to introduce it slowly since even gentle peptides can feel active on inflamed skin.

The peptide is made in laboratory tanks using engineered E. coli rather than animal tissue so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly.

Current data does not show any specific risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the peptide is applied to intact skin. Still this is not medical advice and people who are pregnant or nursing should ask their doctor before adding any new product just to be safe.

Sh-Polypeptide-38 is not known to make skin more sensitive to the sun so it can be used day or night. It also plays nicely with common actives such as vitamin C, niacinamide and gentle exfoliating acids.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Sh-Polypeptide-38 differ from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential reactions and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic levels in a well formulated product.

  • Mild redness or warmth right after application
  • Transient stinging on very sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Itching or tightness if the formula contains a trigger preservative or fragrance
  • Localized rash or hives in individuals with a true peptide allergy which is rare
  • Breakouts if the finished product also contains comedogenic oils or silicones that clog pores

If any of these effects appear and do not calm within a short time stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5. Sh-Polypeptide-38 is a large water-soluble peptide with no oily or waxy components so it cannot settle into pores or form the kind of films that encourage blockages. This makes it a safe choice for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts. As always the rest of the formula matters; if the finished product also contains heavy butters or thick silicones those could still clog pores even though the peptide itself will not.

Summary

Sh-Polypeptide-38 is a lab-crafted twin of human Interferon Gamma that works as a skin-conditioning agent. By sending familiar signals to skin cells it helps them stay organized, hold moisture and bounce back from daily stress which can translate into a smoother brighter look over time.

The ingredient sits in a growing but still boutique niche of biotech peptides. You will spot it most often in higher-end serums or masks rather than basic lotions yet its gentle nature makes it suitable for almost anyone who wants to try it.

Current research and user reports point to a very low risk of irritation or comedogenicity, making Sh-Polypeptide-38 a generally safe addition to skincare. That said skin is personal so it is smart to perform a small patch test whenever you introduce a product that contains this or any new active.

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