Sh-Polypeptide-44: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Polypeptide-44?

Sh-Polypeptide-44 is a lab made copy of a naturally occurring human protein called C-C Motif Chemokine 24. Scientists start by designing the exact gene that codes for this protein, then insert that gene into a harmless strain of E. coli. As the bacteria grow in a controlled fermenter they produce the peptide, which is later purified, folded into the right shape and checked for quality. The finished ingredient is a single-chain protein of up to 119 amino acids that can include tiny bridges called disulfide bonds and may carry simple sugar groups.

This kind of bio-engineered peptide first caught the beauty industry’s attention in the early 2000s when brands began looking for safer and more precise alternatives to animal-derived proteins. Because it mirrors a human molecule, Sh-Polypeptide-44 is well tolerated by most skin types. Today you will spot it in high performance serums, anti-aging creams, sheet masks, eye treatments and post-procedure recovery formulas where it is valued for its ability to keep skin feeling comfortable and looking revitalized.

Sh-Polypeptide-44’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Brands add Sh-Polypeptide-44 to formulas mainly for one clear reason.

Skin conditioning: This peptide helps the skin surface hold on to water, supports a smooth texture and leaves the complexion feeling soft and refreshed. By reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier it can also make the face more resilient to everyday stress like dry air or pollution, giving products a gentle yet effective boost in overall skin comfort.

Who Can Use Sh-Polypeptide-44

Because it is modeled after a naturally occurring human protein and is non-comedogenic, Sh-Polypeptide-44 can be used on most skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive. People with a known allergy to peptide ingredients should avoid it, otherwise it is generally well tolerated.

The peptide is produced by fermenting a lab made gene in harmless E. coli, so no animal material is involved at any stage. This makes products containing Sh-Polypeptide-44 suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current research shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is applied topically. Still, this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products.

Sh-Polypeptide-44 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Normal daily sun protection habits are enough, though those already following a sunscreen routine should of course keep it up.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Sh-Polypeptide-44 differ from person to person. The points below list potential effects that could occur, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness brief flushing or warmth at the application site
  • Itching or tingling transient sensation that usually subsides quickly
  • Dry patches very rare temporary dryness in people with already compromised skin barriers
  • Contact dermatitis localized rash or irritation in those allergic to peptides or preservatives in the finished formula
  • Swelling puffiness around the eyes or lips in sensitive individuals

If any of these effects appear stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5

Sh-Polypeptide-44 is a large, water-soluble protein that sits on the skin’s surface and does not mix with oil in the pores. Because it cannot compact into follicles and has no occlusive or greasy properties, it earns a solid zero on the comedogenic scale. This makes it suitable for those who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts. Since the peptide is typically used at low concentrations and is often combined with light, fast-absorbing bases, it poses virtually no risk of pore blockage.

The only caveat worth noting is that finished formulas containing heavy oils or butters could still trigger congestion, but that would be due to the other ingredients, not the peptide itself.

Summary

Sh-Polypeptide-44 is a lab crafted mimic of a human chemokine that conditions skin by boosting surface hydration, supporting the barrier and leaving the complexion smoother and more resilient. Its popularity is modest and largely found in premium serums, recovery creams and targeted eye treatments where brands want a gentle bio-identical touch without animal sourcing.

The ingredient is considered very safe for topical use, with low irritation potential and a comedogenic rating of zero, so most skin types can enjoy its benefits. As with any new skincare product, a quick patch test is always a smart move to confirm personal compatibility before applying it more broadly.

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