Sh-Polypeptide-55: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Polypeptide-55?

Sh-Polypeptide-55 is a lab-designed version of a human peptide known as Amphiregulin. Scientists recreate the exact gene that codes for this natural skin protein, insert it into the harmless bacterium E. coli, then let the microbes ferment and churn out the peptide. The finished molecule can include up to 252 amino acids arranged in a single chain, sometimes linked by disulfide bonds or carrying small sugar groups, but it is still built solely from the 20 standard amino acids found in the body.

The idea of borrowing human growth factors for beauty care took off in the early 2000s when researchers noticed their ability to signal smoother, firmer skin. As the demand grew for vegan friendly and ethically sourced actives, brands turned to bioengineered peptides such as Sh-Polypeptide-55. Because it is produced in vats rather than harvested from tissue, supply is consistent and free of animal-derived material.

The production process starts with custom DNA synthesis, followed by bacterial fermentation, purification, and gentle drying. Each batch is carefully filtered to remove bacterial residues, leaving a highly pure peptide ready to blend into cosmetic bases.

Thanks to its skin-conditioning talent, Sh-Polypeptide-55 is now found in premium serums, concentrated anti-aging ampoules, sheet masks, eye creams and post-treatment soothing gels where it teams up with hydrators and antioxidants to boost overall skin quality.

Sh-Polypeptide-55’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

When added to a formula Sh-Polypeptide-55 mainly acts as a skin-conditioning agent, meaning it helps improve the look and feel of the complexion by supporting a softer, more supple surface and by encouraging a healthier skin barrier.

Who Can Use Sh-Polypeptide-55

Thanks to its gentle, non-occlusive nature Sh-Polypeptide-55 suits nearly every skin type including dry, normal, combination, oily and mature skin. Those with sensitive or reactive skin usually tolerate it well because it is fragrance-free and low in known irritants. For acne-prone users it poses minimal risk of clogged pores due to its lightweight, water-soluble profile.

The peptide is entirely vegan and vegetarian friendly. It is produced through microbial fermentation in a lab so no animal tissues or by-products are involved at any stage of manufacturing.

Current data shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should still confirm product choices with a qualified physician to be safe.

Sh-Polypeptide-55 does not increase photosensitivity, so it can be used morning or night without elevating the skin’s vulnerability to sunlight. Standard daily sunscreen is still recommended for general skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any skincare ingredient differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects of topical Sh-Polypeptide-55 but they remain uncommon when the peptide is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or flushing
  • Transient tingling or warmth after application
  • Itching or slight stinging in highly sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific peptide sensitivity
  • Isolated breakouts in very acne-prone users if paired with comedogenic base ingredients

If any uncomfortable reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a dermatologist or healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Sh-Polypeptide-55 is a large water-soluble molecule that does not sit inside pores or form heavy films on the skin, so it virtually cannot block follicles or trigger acne. Its production process yields a pure peptide without oily carriers or waxy stabilizers that typically raise comedogenicity. Because of this light, non-occlusive character it is considered safe for those who are prone to breakouts. The only time issues might arise is if the finished product pairs the peptide with other comedogenic ingredients such as certain plant oils or thick silicones.

Summary

Sh-Polypeptide-55 is a lab-crafted version of the human growth factor Amphiregulin that conditions skin by supporting a smoother surface, better moisture retention and a more resilient barrier. It works by mimicking signals naturally present in the skin, prompting cells to behave in a healthier, more balanced way.

While not yet as mainstream as peptides like Matrixyl, this ingredient is gaining traction in high-end serums, eye creams and post-procedure gels thanks to its vegan origin and gentle profile.

Current research and real-world use place Sh-Polypeptide-55 among the safer actives in skincare, with very low risk of irritation or clogged pores. As with any new cosmetic ingredient users should perform a small patch test before full-face application to confirm personal compatibility.

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