Sh-Polypeptide-85: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Polypeptide-85?

Sh-Polypeptide-85 is the cosmetic name for fibroblast growth factor 9, a lab-crafted protein fragment that naturally exists in the body and helps guide healthy cell activity. In skincare it is produced through modern bio-engineering: scientists insert the genetic code for FGF9 into safe, food-grade bacteria or yeast, let the microbes brew the peptide in stainless-steel tanks, then purify the finished material so it is free of microbes and contaminants. Interest in growth factors first appeared in medical research during the 1980s, but by the early 2000s brands realized these molecules could also be used topically to signal fresher-looking skin, so FGF9 joined the growing list of “signal” peptides appearing in premium beauty products. Today Sh-Polypeptide-85 can be found in age-defying serums, moisture-boosting creams, sheet masks, targeted eye formulas, post-procedure soothing gels and even some luxury primers, where only a small dose is needed to support the overall formula.

Sh-Polypeptide-85’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Its key role in a formula is skin conditioning, which means it helps keep skin soft, smooth and well balanced. By mimicking natural growth factors it can encourage surface renewal, lending a fresher appearance and a more resilient feel while supporting other hydrating and soothing ingredients in the product.

Who Can Use Sh-Polypeptide-85

Because it is lightweight and non-oily Sh-Polypeptide-85 works well for dry, normal, combination and oily skin as it conditions without clogging pores or leaving heavy residue. Sensitive complexions usually tolerate it because it does not rely on acids or retinoids, yet anyone with a known allergy to fermented ingredients should proceed with caution since the peptide is grown in yeast or bacteria before purification.

Sh-Polypeptide-85 made through microbial fermentation is free of animal-derived additives so it is suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Always check the full product label in case other ingredients do not meet personal ethics.

Current research has not flagged topical FGF9 as unsafe for pregnancy or breastfeeding, but there is limited data overall. This information is not medical advice and expectant or nursing women should ask their healthcare provider before adding any new skincare product that contains this peptide.

The peptide does not increase photosensitivity, so it can be used morning or night. Normal daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Sh-Polypeptide-85 differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet unlikely for the average user when the ingredient has been properly formulated and preserved.

  • Redness or mild irritation
  • Itching in very sensitive skin
  • Rare allergic reaction to residual fermentation by-products
  • Breakouts if combined with comedogenic oils in the same product

If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5. Sh-Polypeptide-85 is a small, water-soluble protein fragment used in very low amounts and contains no heavy oils or waxes that could block pores, so it earns a non-comedogenic score. This makes it generally safe for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts. If the finished product does cause congestion it is more likely due to other ingredients rather than the peptide itself.

Summary

Sh-Polypeptide-85 is a lab-made version of fibroblast growth factor 9 that conditions skin by whispering signals to surface cells, encouraging them to renew and hold onto moisture so skin feels smoother and looks fresher. It is still a niche ingredient found mainly in upscale serums and post-procedure creams, yet its fan base is growing as more brands embrace bio-engineered peptides. Current studies and real-world use point to a high safety profile with very low irritation risk. As with any new cosmetic step it is wise to do a quick patch test to be sure your skin agrees with the complete formula.

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