Shellac: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Shellac?

Shellac is a natural resin made by tiny insects called Laccifer lacca, which live on certain trees in India and Southeast Asia. After the insects feed on tree sap they secrete a protective shell that hardens into flakes on the bark. Collectors scrape the flakes, wash away impurities, then dry and melt them into thin sheets or small chips that end up in cosmetic labs. Long ago shellac was valued as a wood finish and food glaze. In the early twentieth century formulators noticed its glossy finish and water-resistant properties and began adding it to hair sprays, mascaras and nail products. Today you can find shellac in styling gels, curl creams, long-wear lipsticks, waterproof mascaras, brow sets, nail wraps, certain lotions and even some temporary tattoo inks.

Shellac’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In beauty formulas shellac pulls its weight in several ways:

  • Binding: Helps hold powders and pigments together so products like pressed eyeshadows or foundations stay intact and apply evenly
  • Film forming: Creates a thin flexible layer on skin hair or nails that locks in color boosts shine and improves wear time
  • Hair fixing: Provides light to medium hold in sprays and gels keeping styles in place without heavy buildup
  • Emollient: Adds a smooth feel and a touch of moisture giving products a silkier glide across skin
  • Viscosity controlling: Adjusts thickness so creams lotions and gels reach the ideal texture for easy spreadability

Who Can Use Shellac

Shellac is generally considered safe for most skin types including normal, dry and combination skin. Oily or acne-prone users may want to monitor how their skin responds since the resin can form an occlusive film that might trap oil if cleansing is inadequate. Sensitive skin usually tolerates shellac, yet anyone with a known allergy to tree resins or insect by-products should proceed with caution.

Because shellac comes directly from insects it is not suitable for strict vegans and some vegetarians who avoid animal-derived ingredients. Those who follow a plant-only lifestyle may wish to choose synthetic or plant-based alternatives that offer similar film-forming benefits.

Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals are not known to face added risk when using cosmetics that contain shellac. The resin sits on the surface and is not absorbed in meaningful amounts. Still, this information is educational only. Expectant or nursing women should ask a qualified healthcare provider before introducing any new personal care product just to be safe.

Shellac does not cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also fragrance-free and rarely interferes with common active ingredients like retinoids or vitamin C, making it a flexible addition to most routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical shellac can vary between individuals. The points below outline potential side effects, although most people will not experience them when using a well-formulated product.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis – redness, swelling or itching in users sensitive to resins or insect derivatives
  • Skin irritation – mild stinging or burning if the product is overused on already compromised skin
  • Clogged pores – possible on very oily or acne-prone skin due to the occlusive film it forms
  • Dryness or flaking on hair – when high concentrations are left in styling products without adequate moisturizers
  • Brittle nails – rare but can occur if shellac-based nail coatings are removed aggressively or too often

If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2/5. Shellac itself is a hard resin that does not contain fatty acids typically linked to breakouts, so it ranks low on the pore-clogging scale. However its film-forming nature can trap sweat, sebum and debris if a formula is heavy or if cleansing is inadequate, which nudges the score slightly above zero.

People prone to acne can usually use products with shellac without major issues, but they should opt for lightweight formulations and cleanse thoroughly at the end of the day.

Concentration and product type matter: a thin coat in mascara is far less likely to cause congestion than a thick leave-on balm. Pairing shellac with non-comedogenic emollients and using water-based removers can help keep pores clear.

Summary

Shellac acts as a binder, film former, hair fixer, mild emollient and viscosity controller. Its resinous nature lets it glue powders together, lay down a glossy flexible film, hold hairstyles in place, smooth product feel and fine-tune thickness all in one go.

While not the hottest buzzword in skincare, shellac maintains steady popularity in long-wear makeup, nail finishes and hair sprays because it delivers shine and durability at a reasonable cost.

Overall safety is high: adverse reactions are rare and the resin sits on the surface rather than soaking into deeper layers. Still every skin is unique so patch testing any new product that contains shellac is a smart precaution to catch sensitivity early.

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