Shikalkin: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Shikalkin?

Shikalkin is a blend of two naturally occurring dyes, shikonin and alkannin, that are mirror images of each other. Both pigments come from the roots of plants in the Boraginaceae family, most famously the Lithospermum and Alkanna species. These roots have been used for centuries in traditional textiles and skin preparations, prized for their deep red-purple color. Modern cosmetic labs isolate the root extract, then separate and purify shikonin and alkannin before recombining them into a balanced racemic mixture called Shikalkin. The result is a stable, oil-soluble powder or paste that mixes easily into creams, balms and makeup bases. Today you will spot Shikalkin in tinted lip balms, blushes, masks, all-in-one moisturizers and soothing after-sun gels, where it lends both its rich hue and skin-friendly qualities.

Shikalkin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Shikalkin offers two key roles that enhance both the look and feel of a product.

  • Colorant – Provides a vibrant natural red to violet shade that can replace synthetic dyes in lip, cheek and skincare items, giving products a visually appealing tint while helping brands market a more plant-derived lineup
  • Skin conditioning – Supplies light emollient properties that help soften and calm the skin surface which can make moisturizers and after-treatments feel more comforting and reduce the appearance of dryness

Who Can Use Shikalkin

Shikalkin is generally well suited for all skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin because it is lightweight and non occlusive. Most sensitive skin users also tolerate it, though anyone with a known allergy to plant dyes in the Boraginaceae family should steer clear because the pigment molecules are similar. The ingredient is entirely plant derived and no animal by-products are involved in its production so it fits vegan and vegetarian standards. Shikalkin has no known hormonal activity and is used in very low amounts within finished products, so it is not flagged as a special concern for pregnant or breastfeeding women. That said this is not medical advice and expecting or nursing mothers should always show any skincare formula to a qualified health professional first. Shikalkin is not photo-reactive; it will not make skin more sensitive to sunlight nor does it break down under normal UV exposure. No other routine precautions are typically required beyond standard good skincare practices.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Shikalkin differ from person to person. The points below describe potential effects, but most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a professionally formulated product.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis – rare redness, itching or rash in individuals sensitized to Boraginaceae plant compounds
  • Temporary skin staining – the strong natural pigment may leave a faint pink or violet hue on very light skin or under nails until the next wash
  • Mild irritation – slight stinging or warmth can occur if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Staining of fabrics – excess product may transfer color to towels or clothing especially when still wet

If you experience any discomfort or unexpected reaction discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Comedogenic rating: 1/5

Shikalkin molecules are bulky and stay near the skin surface, creating only a light, breathable layer. They behave more like quick-absorbing esters than heavy oils and are used in very low percentages, so they are unlikely to block pores.

This low score means Shikalkin is generally appropriate for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Real-world comedogenicity still depends on the full formula and individual skin differences so results can vary.

Summary

Shikalkin offers natural colour plus mild skin conditioning, dispersing smoothly in oil phases to deliver a vibrant red violet hue while leaving skin soft and calm.

Though not as widespread as synthetic dyes it is gaining popularity with brands focused on plant powered ingredients and visually striking shades.

Overall safety is high with only occasional reports of sensitivity. As with any new product a quick patch test is a smart move before full use.

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