What Is Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5?
Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5 is a lab-crafted ingredient made by linking shikimic acid, a natural acid first isolated from star anise, with a short chain of five amino acids called sh-pentapeptide-5. Blending an organic acid with a peptide creates a small but stable molecule that can sit on the skin’s surface and lend protective properties.
The idea of pairing shikimic acid with peptides grew out of the search for gentle skin protectors that do more than form a simple film. Researchers found that the acid could boost the stability of the peptide while the peptide could help guide the acid where it is needed. This dual action caught the attention of cosmetic chemists in the late 2010s and the compound soon moved from lab tests into pilot production.
Manufacturing starts with plant-derived shikimic acid that is purified, then reacted with the lab-synthesised pentapeptide in water under carefully controlled pH and temperature. The result is filtered, concentrated and dried to yield a fine powder that dissolves easily into cosmetic bases.
Formulators add Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5 to leave-on products where a lightweight yet lasting shield is helpful. You will most often see it in serums, daily moisturisers, soothing masks, post-treatment creams and protective anti-age blends.
Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas this ingredient serves one main purpose that brings several user-friendly advantages.
Skin protecting: It helps form a breathable layer on the skin that reduces moisture loss, shields against everyday irritants like pollution and supports a calm look and feel. Because the molecule is small it spreads evenly without a heavy or greasy finish, making products feel light while still offering reliable surface defense.
Who Can Use Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5
This peptide-acid hybrid is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its lightweight film helps hold moisture without trapping excess oil so even breakout-prone skin tends to tolerate it. Sensitive complexions generally do well too since the molecule is non-acidic once bound, though anyone with a known allergy to star anise derivatives or peptides should proceed carefully.
The compound is made from plant-derived shikimic acid and a lab-synthesised pentapeptide, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived raw materials or by-products are used at any stage of production.
Current research shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in typical cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with a healthcare professional before use to be sure they meet individual needs.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so it can be worn day or night. Standard daytime SPF remains important for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5 differ from person to person. The effects listed below are potential and unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated and used as intended.
- Mild redness or warmth
- Temporary stinging on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitised to star anise derivatives or specific peptide sequences
- Rare clogging or small surface bumps if used in an overly rich formula on very oily skin
If any uncomfortable reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a qualified healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1 (very low)
Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5 is a lightweight water-soluble molecule that sits on the surface without adding extra oil or thick waxes. Its small size and lack of fatty chains mean it does not tend to block pores in standard leave-on concentrations. For that reason formulators consider it virtually non-comedogenic.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.
As always the overall comedogenicity of a finished product depends on the full formula. Rich occlusive bases or heavy emulsifiers can raise pore-clogging potential even if this single ingredient is low risk.
Summary
Shikimoyl Sh-Pentapeptide-5 works as a skin-protecting agent. By combining shikimic acid with a short peptide it forms a micro-thin film that reduces moisture loss shields the surface from pollution and helps keep skin calm. The peptide portion guides the molecule to spread evenly while the acid portion boosts stability so the protective layer lasts longer.
It is still a niche ingredient so you will not spot it in every aisle yet but its gentle feel and vegan origin are gaining quiet attention among indie and premium brands looking for fresh protective actives.
Current data place it in the low-risk category for topical use with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. Even so skin can be unpredictable so it is smart to patch test any new product that contains this or any other unfamiliar ingredient.