What Is Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate?
Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate is a plant-derived conditioning agent created from borage seed oil, a botanical source rich in gamma-linolenic acid, reacted with propyl dimethyl ammonium compounds and then neutralized with sodium hydrogen phosphate and chloride. The result is a water-soluble, cationic surfactant that carries both cleansing and conditioning properties.
Interest in borage oil grew in the 1980s when formulators searched for gentler, naturally sourced alternatives to harsher quaternary surfactants. By the early 2000s manufacturers refined the process, linking borage fatty acids to a propyl dimonium backbone and adding a phosphate group to improve water compatibility. Today large-scale production involves esterifying purified borage fatty acids, quaternizing the amine portion, then carefully controlling pH to form the final phosphate salt.
You will most often spot this ingredient in shampoos, conditioners, co-wash products, creamy facial cleansers, micellar waters, shower gels, baby washes, hair masks and anti-frizz leave-ins. Its mildness and dual action make it popular in formulas labeled “gentle” or “sulfate-free.”
Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient supports both the feel and performance of a wide range of personal care products.
- Antistatic – deposits a light, positively charged film on hair that helps reduce flyaways, improves combability and leaves strands smoother and softer
- Cleansing – lifts away dirt, excess oil and product buildup without stripping skin or hair, making formulas feel mild yet effective
- Foam Boosting – stabilizes and enhances lather so shampoos and body washes feel rich and luxurious even when they are sulfate-free
Who Can Use Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
This gentle, water-soluble surfactant suits most skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it cleanses without stripping lipids or leaving an occlusive film. People with known allergies to borage seed or quaternary ammonium compounds should avoid it to prevent irritation.
The ingredient is sourced from borage seed oil and synthesized without animal-derived materials so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full product label though as other ingredients in the formula might not be vegan friendly.
Available safety data show no reproductive toxicity, meaning products containing this material are generally considered low risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new personal care products.
Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also color-safe for dyed hair and biodegradable, making it a good choice for eco-conscious users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects though most consumers tolerate the ingredient well when used as directed.
- Mild skin redness or itching in individuals sensitive to borage derivatives or cationic surfactants
- Transient eye stinging if shampoo or cleanser accidentally enters the eyes
- Scalp or skin dryness when used in very high concentrations or with harsh co-surfactants
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as rash or swelling
- Product buildup that can weigh hair down if formulas are not rinsed thoroughly
If any irritation or discomfort occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate is highly water soluble and rinses clean, so it is very unlikely to sit in pores and form blockages. The fatty acids from borage oil are chemically bound within a cationic surfactant structure, which further lowers any pore-clogging potential. Because of this, most dermatology references place similar conditioning surfactants at the very low end of the comedogenic scale.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin under normal use.
Risk of clogging is even lower in rinse-off products like shampoos and body washes compared to leave-on creams or serums.
Summary
Sodium Borageamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate works as a mild cleanser, a foam booster and an antistatic conditioner. Its amphiphilic structure lifts away dirt while the positively charged head bonds lightly to hair or skin, smoothing strands and steadying foam.
The ingredient shows up most often in sulfate-free shampoos, co-wash formulas and gentle facial cleansers. It is not yet a household name but formulators appreciate how it replaces harsher quats without sacrificing performance, so its presence on labels is growing.
Current safety data rate it low risk for irritation, sensitization and environmental impact when used at typical levels. As with any new cosmetic, it is smart to perform a quick patch test before regular use just to be safe.