What Is Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate?
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate is a modified form of dextran, a naturally occurring polysaccharide that is traditionally obtained by fermenting certain strains of bacteria on sugar substrates. Chemists take the base dextran chain and attach carboxymethyl groups, then add acetate and sulfate groups, finally neutralizing the material with sodium. These steps turn the otherwise simple sugar polymer into a multifunctional ingredient that dissolves easily in water and has a mild negative charge, qualities that make it compatible with skin friendly pH levels.
The cosmetic industry began exploring dextran derivatives in the late twentieth century while looking for plant or fermentation based humectants that could rival glycerin. As researchers improved the esterification process, they discovered that adding acetate and sulfate groups not only boosted water binding power but also left a breathable film on skin and nails. These advantages quickly earned the ingredient a place in Korean and Japanese sheet masks, then in Western serums and hand creams.
Today Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate appears in hydrating sheet masks, lightweight facial moisturizers, nail strengtheners, after sun gels and barrier supporting ampoules. Its ability to hold moisture while forming an invisible veil makes it attractive for leave on formulas aimed at calming dryness or shielding skin from everyday irritants.
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings several helpful properties to personal care products thanks to its unique chemistry.
- Humectant: Attracts and binds water from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin, helping formulas deliver lasting hydration without a greasy feel and reducing the appearance of fine lines caused by dryness
- Nail conditioning: Forms a flexible film on the nail plate that locks in moisture, improving flexibility and reducing brittleness which in turn helps prevent peeling or breakage
- Skin protecting: Creates a lightweight barrier that shields skin from external aggressors such as pollution or harsh weather while allowing normal breathability and helping soothe minor irritation
Who Can Use Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate is generally well tolerated by all major skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive. Its lightweight water binding action suits dehydrated or mature skin while the non occlusive film keeps it comfortable for acne prone or oily complexions. People with extremely reactive skin can still benefit because the molecule carries a mild charge and sits on the surface rather than penetrating deeply, minimizing chances of stinging or inflammation.
The ingredient is produced from fermented plant sugars and contains no animal by products so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
No data indicates problems for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetics. Absorption through intact skin is minimal and it is not known to interfere with hormonal pathways. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should clear any new skincare product with a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also odorless and compatible with most common actives making it easy to slot into existing routines without special restrictions.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to topical Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues but they are uncommon assuming the finished product has been correctly formulated and preserved.
- Mild redness or warmth shortly after application
- Transient stinging on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to dextran derivatives
- Product pilling or tacky residue when layered with heavy silicones which can lead to minor mechanical irritation from rubbing
- Loss of efficacy or slight cloudiness when mixed directly with highly cationic ingredients because opposite charges can cause the polymer to precipitate
If you notice any persistent irritation discontinue use and consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional for advice.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate is a large water soluble polysaccharide derivative that remains on the surface and rinses away without leaving oily residue. It contains no lipids that could block pores and its negative charge prevents it from binding to sebum so it cannot form plugs inside follicles. For these reasons it is considered non comedogenic.
Suitable for acne prone or breakout prone skin.
Pore issues would only arise if the ingredient is trapped under thick occlusive layers or heavy makeup, a formulation concern rather than a flaw in the raw material.
Summary
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Acetate Sulfate works as a humectant by drawing water to the skin, a nail conditioner by laying down a flexible moisture locking film and a skin protectant by creating a light breathable shield against external stressors. Its acetate and sulfate groups boost water attraction while the dextran chain reinforces the surface barrier.
Not yet a household staple but gaining traction in hydrating sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers and barrier support serums, it appeals to formulators looking for a vegan friendly alternative to glycerin that feels weightless.
Overall it carries a low risk of irritation or sensitization. As with any new skincare product a quick patch test is recommended to confirm personal compatibility.