What Is Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate?
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate is a modified form of dextran, a sugar based polymer originally obtained from the fermentation of certain bacteria on plant derived glucose. Chemists add carboxymethyl groups then attach sulfate groups, turning the neutral dextran into a salt that dissolves easily in water and binds moisture. This switch from a food grade thickener to a cosmetic helper took place in the late twentieth century when researchers noticed its ability to hold water and calm skin. Production starts with pharmaceutical or food grade dextran, which is purified, reacted with monochloroacetic acid to introduce carboxymethyl units, neutralized with sodium hydroxide, then treated with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid to add sulfates. After careful washing and drying the white to off white powder is ready for use. Formulators sprinkle it into hydrating sheet masks, soothing gels, anti aging serums, eye creams, post shave balms and after sun lotions where it blends smoothly without altering texture.
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Below are the main roles this ingredient plays in skin care formulas
- Humectant – Draws water from the environment and deeper skin layers to the surface, boosting immediate hydration and helping products feel fresh rather than greasy
- Skin Conditioning – Smooths rough patches and supports a soft supple feel, making the complexion look healthier and more even
- Skin Protecting – Forms a light breathable film that reduces moisture loss and shields skin from daily irritants like pollution and wind
Who Can Use Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate
This ingredient is gentle enough for nearly every skin type. Dry skin benefits from its water attracting power while oily and combination skin appreciate its lightweight feel that hydrates without clogging pores. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it forms a calming shield on the surface, though anyone with a known allergy to dextran based ingredients should steer clear.
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate is made from plant derived glucose and the processing agents used are synthetic, not animal based, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is applied topically in normal cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss all skincare products with a healthcare professional just to be safe.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it does not cause photosensitivity. Regular daytime sunscreen use is still recommended as part of any good routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate can vary person to person. The effects listed below are only potential issues and are not likely for most users when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild redness or warming sensation on very reactive skin
- Temporary itching if applied to broken or highly irritated areas
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to dextran derivatives
- Eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any irritation or discomfort occurs stop using the product and consult a qualified medical professional for advice.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic). Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate is a large, highly water-soluble polymer that sits on the skin surface and rinses away easily. It lacks oily or waxy components that could block pores, so it is very unlikely to contribute to blackheads or breakouts. This makes it suitable for acne-prone or congestion-prone skin types. Because it forms a light breathable film rather than an occlusive layer, it does not trap sebum or debris beneath the surface.
Summary
Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran Sulfate acts mainly as a humectant, skin-conditioning agent and skin protectant. Its carboxymethyl and sulfate groups attract and hold water, delivering immediate hydration. When it hydrates, the polymer swells slightly, smoothing rough patches and leaving skin softer. The thin film it creates helps slow down moisture loss and shields skin against everyday irritants.
While not a household name like hyaluronic acid, this ingredient is quietly gaining traction in hydrating serums, soothing gels and sheet masks because formulators appreciate its gentle nature and light skin feel.
Current research and cosmetic use history show it to be low risk for most people with minimal reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a quick patch test before regular use, especially if you have very sensitive or reactive skin.