What Is Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate?
Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate is a vitamin C derivative created by joining ascorbic acid to glycerin and two molecules of myristic acid, then converting it to a sodium salt. This marriage of vitamin C with fatty acids and glycerin makes it both water compatible and oil friendly, so it mixes easily into modern skincare. Chemists developed it in the 1990s as a way to deliver the brightening power of vitamin C without the fast oxidation that pure ascorbic acid suffers once exposed to air or light.
The ingredient is produced through a few key steps. First ascorbic acid is esterified with glyceryl dimyristate, an oily compound formed from natural plant fats such as coconut or palm kernel oil. The resulting ester is then neutralized with a small amount of sodium to create the final, more stable salt. The process keeps the antioxidant core of vitamin C intact while surrounding it with a protective, skin-loving shell.
Thanks to that stability boost, Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate shows up in a variety of leave-on and rinse-off formulas. You will most often spot it in daily moisturizers, brightening serums, anti-aging creams, sheet masks, eye treatments and even some sunscreens where it partners with UV filters to fend off free-radical damage. Its oil-friendly tail also lets it slip into richer balms and makeup primers without separating.
Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker brings several perks to a formulation
- Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals generated by UV rays and pollution which can otherwise lead to dullness and early wrinkles. By protecting both skin and the product itself from oxidation it supports a fresher, more even complexion over time.
- Humectant: Attracts and holds water on the skin’s surface delivering a light moisture boost that can make skin feel softer and look plumper without heaviness.
- Skin Conditioning: The fatty acid portion gives a silky slip improving spreadability while helping smooth the skin barrier. Regular use can leave skin feeling conditioned and comfortable.
Who Can Use Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate
This vitamin C derivative is generally friendly to most skin types. Its balanced water-oil profile lets it hydrate without feeling greasy so dry, oily and combination complexions usually tolerate it well. Sensitive skin often appreciates its lower acidity compared with pure ascorbic acid though those extremely reactive to fatty acids from coconut or palm may prefer to avoid it.
The ingredient is made from plant-derived fats and synthesized vitamin C so it can be sourced in a way that is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Brands that focus on cruelty-free production typically highlight this in their labeling.
No research flags Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate as a concern for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Still this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before adding new skincare just to be safe.
Unlike some acids or retinoids this derivative does not increase photosensitivity. In fact its antioxidant action can lend a small extra layer of daytime protection when paired with sunscreen. It also plays well with most other actives across a wide pH range which makes it easy to slot into multi-step routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects even though most users experience none when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Transient stinging or tingling especially on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Mild redness or irritation in those sensitive to vitamin C derivatives or fatty acids
- Allergic contact dermatitis for individuals specifically allergic to coconut or palm derived myristic acid sources
- Comedogenic flare-ups in very acne-prone users if the overall formula is rich or occlusive
- Interaction irritation when layered with high percentages of exfoliating acids or retinoids in the same routine
If any persistent discomfort swelling or rash occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5. Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate carries two molecules of myristic acid yet they are locked into an ester structure and typically used at low percentages, so the fatty portion has limited contact with pore linings. Most lab and anecdotal data place it at the lower end of the scale, close to other vitamin C fatty esters like ascorbyl palmitate. This means it is unlikely to clog pores on its own.
Suitable for acne-prone skin, though breakouts can still occur if the surrounding formula is heavy or occlusive.
Keep in mind that individual reactions depend on the entire product, concentration and how many layers of skincare you apply on top.
Summary
Sodium Dimyristoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate acts as a triple performer: it fights free radicals through the vitamin C core, attracts water to plump the surface and softens skin thanks to its fatty acid tail. The ester link shields vitamin C from rapid oxidation letting it deliver benefits for longer in both water based and oil rich formulas.
You will mainly find it in mid to high end moisturizers and serums rather than mass market cleansers, so its popularity is modest but growing as brands look for stable vitamin C options.
Current research shows it is well tolerated with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity when used at standard levels. Still everyone’s skin is unique so patch testing any new product that contains it is a smart precaution.