What Is Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate?
Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate is a vitamin C derivative created by linking ascorbic acid to glycerin and two stearic acid chains then neutralizing the molecule with sodium. This combination gives it the antioxidant power of vitamin C along with the creamy texture of fatty acids. It was first explored in the late 1990s as chemists searched for stable, oil-friendly forms of vitamin C that would resist oxidation and mix smoothly into lotions.
The ingredient is produced through a multi-step process. Stearic acid from plant oils such as palm or coconut is attached to glycerin. Ascorbic acid is then esterified to this diglyceride structure. Finally a small amount of sodium hydroxide is added to form the sodium salt, improving solubility and shelf life.
Because it can dissolve in both oils and a little water, Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate slides easily into many cosmetic bases. You will often see it in silky moisturizers, anti aging serums, sheet masks, brightening creams, sunscreens and makeup primers where it helps keep formulas smooth while delivering a gentle dose of vitamin C.
Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient supports both the performance of a product and the feel of the skin.
- Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals that can dull skin and speed visible aging which keeps the formula fresh and supports a brighter looking complexion.
- Humectant: Draws water to the upper skin layers giving an immediate plumping effect and improving overall hydration without a greasy finish.
- Skin Conditioning: Softens and smooths the skin surface so products glide on more evenly and leave a supple after-feel.
Who Can Use Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate
This derivative of vitamin C is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it better than pure ascorbic acid because the fatty acid chains buffer the formula and reduce sting. Those with very acne prone or fungal acne prone skin may want to monitor how their skin responds since the stearic components can occasionally feel heavy in rich creams.
Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate is considered vegan friendly because the stearic acid and glycerin used in cosmetics are typically sourced from plant oils such as palm, coconut or soybean rather than animal fats. Always check with the individual brand if strict vegan certification is important to you.
Pregnant and breastfeeding women can usually use products containing this ingredient as there are no known reproductive or developmental concerns linked to topical application. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review new skincare with a qualified healthcare provider before use to stay on the safe side.
The molecule does not increase photosensitivity so you can use it morning or night. That said, daily sunscreen is still recommended to protect the antioxidant benefits it provides. It also plays nicely with most other actives, though pairing it with very low pH exfoliating acids could slightly weaken its stability.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that have been reported though most users enjoy the ingredient without any problems when it is formulated correctly.
- Mild tingling or warmth upon application, especially on freshly exfoliated skin
- Temporary redness or flushing in very sensitive complexions
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to vitamin C derivatives or fatty acids
- Clogged pores or small breakouts if used in a very rich base on highly oily skin
- Interaction with low pH acids leading to slight product separation or reduced potency
If you experience any persistent irritation or other adverse reaction stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 / 5
Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate contains stearic acid chains that can feel occlusive in heavier creams but the molecule is an esterified, salt form which reduces its tendency to lodge inside pores. Most formulations use it at low levels so the overall pore-clogging risk stays modest.
Generally acceptable for acne-prone skin when used in lightweight or gel-cream products yet very oily complexions might prefer to limit it in rich balms or butters.
Formulation style and the entire ingredient deck matter more than this single component so a product’s texture and oil load will ultimately decide how breakout-friendly it is.
Summary
Sodium Distearoyl Glyceryl Ascorbate works as an antioxidant that fights free radicals, a humectant that draws moisture to the skin, and a skin-conditioning agent that leaves a smooth, supple feel. It achieves these benefits by combining vitamin C activity with moisturizing glycerin and softening fatty acids in a single, stable molecule.
While not as famous as pure ascorbic acid or popular vitamin C esters like ascorbyl glucoside, this ingredient is gaining quiet traction in modern moisturizers, brightening serums and sunscreens because formulators appreciate its stability in both oil and water phases.
Topical use is considered low risk with only mild, infrequent irritation reports. As with any new skincare product, patch testing is a smart step to confirm personal compatibility before full-face application.