What Is Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide?
Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide is a lab made peptide derivative that combines amino acid fragments with a small salt group. The molecule is built around two naturally occurring amino acids, proline and valine, which chemists modify by attaching a benzoyl group, a formylhippurate segment and a trifluoroacetylisobutyl chain. Once the structure is complete the compound is neutralized with sodium giving it water-friendly properties.
The ingredient emerged in the late 2000s when formulators were searching for bio-inspired compounds that could mimic the way skin’s own peptides help maintain softness and resilience. Researchers found that adding the trifluoroacetylisobutyl tail improved stability while the formylhippurate portion increased affinity for the skin’s surface proteins. This combination led to its introduction in premium skincare lines focused on replenishing moisture and improving texture.
Production starts with plant or fermentation sourced amino acids. Through a series of controlled chemical reactions, each side chain is attached in a step-by-step process called solid phase peptide synthesis. After purification, the finished peptide is converted to its sodium salt form so it can dissolve easily in water-based formulas.
You will most often see Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide in lightweight serums, leave-on creams, anti-aging masks and targeted eye treatments. Because it is stable in a wide pH range, it also appears in mist toners and overnight moisturizers aimed at smoothing and conditioning the skin.
Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized mainly for one key role in skincare formulations.
- Skin conditioning: It helps soften and smooth the skin surface by supporting the moisture barrier. The peptide structure can bind lightly to proteins in the outer layer, creating a conditioned feel that leaves skin looking supple and refreshed
Who Can Use Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide
This peptide salt is considered gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin. Its light, water soluble nature means it rarely feels heavy or greasy so even acne prone or sensitive users usually tolerate it well. There is no evidence of pore clogging, which makes it acceptable for people managing breakouts. Those with very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still watch for any personal sensitivities to the overall formula but the ingredient itself is not known to trigger common irritant pathways.
Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide is synthesized entirely from plant or fermentation sourced amino acids and contains no animal derived materials. That makes products featuring it suitable for vegans and vegetarians when the rest of the formulation also avoids animal ingredients.
No data point to specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the peptide is applied topically at the low levels used in cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should have a doctor review any skincare routine to be certain it fits their personal needs.
The molecule itself does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, and there is no known interaction with common UV filters, so daily SPF use can follow normal sun safety guidelines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide will differ from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential effects and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or warmth on application
- Itching in those with highly sensitive skin barriers
- Rare stinging if combined with very acidic products
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already allergic to similar peptide structures
If any persistent discomfort or visible reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1 (virtually non-comedogenic)
Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide is a small, water-soluble peptide salt that does not leave an oily film or sit heavily on the skin. Because it readily dissolves in the water phase of a formula and rinses clean from pores, it has very little potential to trap sebum or debris that might lead to comedones. Lab and in-use testing from suppliers show no measurable increase in pore blockage even at concentrations higher than those found in retail products.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
The only time pore issues might arise is if the ingredient is combined with highly occlusive bases like thick mineral oils or waxes, in which case the overall product could behave differently. On its own, though, the peptide scores at the bottom of the clogging scale.
Summary
Sodium Formylhippurate Trifluoroacetylisobutyl Dipeptide-42 Amide is a lab crafted dipeptide that conditions skin by lightly binding to proteins in the outer layer, helping the moisture barrier stay smooth and flexible. Its sodium salt form keeps it water friendly so it can slip into lightweight serums, creams and mists without adding grease. The trifluoroacetylisobutyl tail boosts stability while the formylhippurate segment improves skin affinity, together delivering a soft, refreshed feel after application.
While not a household name, it appears in a growing number of mid to high-end formulas aimed at hydration and texture refinement. Brands appreciate that it is vegan, pH stable and easy to slot into water-based systems which has fueled steady, if quiet, adoption.
Current safety data show low irritation risk, negligible comedogenicity and no known photo sensitivity. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a simple patch test when trying a product containing this peptide to confirm personal compatibility.