What Is Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3?
Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 is a modified form of hyaluronic acid, the water-binding molecule naturally found in skin. In this case hyaluronic acid is first turned into its sodium salt for better stability, then crosslinked with a coupling agent called 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide. This crosslinking turns the normally linear chains of hyaluronic acid into a three-dimensional network that can hold water like a sponge. After crosslinking, the polymer is reacted with the amino acid histidine, giving the material added skin-soothing properties and a slightly negative charge that helps it spread evenly across the skin.
The ingredient originated from research aimed at making hyaluronic acid last longer on the skin. Standard hyaluronic acid rinses away or breaks down quickly, so chemists began crosslinking it in the early 2000s for use in long-wear moisturizers and professional fillers. Adding histidine is a newer twist that appeared in patent literature over the past decade as brands searched for gentler, bio-inspired actives.
Manufacturing starts with biotech-derived hyaluronic acid fermented from plant sugars. The material is purified, converted into its sodium form, crosslinked in a controlled water bath with the carbodiimide agent, then reacted with food-grade histidine. After neutralization and multiple filtration steps the finished polymer is dried into a fine powder that rehydrates instantly when blended into water-based formulas.
Because of its strong water-binding ability and mild profile Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 appears in sheet masks, gel creams, anti-aging serums, hydrating primers, after-sun lotions and overnight recovery treatments.
Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient supports skin hydration and overall condition in several ways
- Humectant: Attracts and locks in moisture from the environment and deeper skin layers giving an immediate plumping effect and helping to smooth the look of fine lines
- Skin conditioning: Forms a flexible film on the surface that reduces transepidermal water loss, leaves skin feeling soft and comfortable and enhances the spread and sensory feel of the finished product
Who Can Use Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3
Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 suits almost every skin type. Dry and mature skin appreciate its strong water-holding power while oily and combination skin benefit from light hydration that does not feel greasy. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the molecule is large and stays mostly on the surface but, as with any ingredient, individual tolerance can vary. There are no known reasons for people with acne-prone, rosacea-prone or eczema-prone skin to avoid it unless they react to hyaluronic acid in general.
The material is produced by fermenting plant sugars then reacting the purified hyaluronic acid with safe cosmetic agents. No animal parts are used so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly.
Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied to intact skin. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before starting any new skincare product just to be sure.
The polymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and does not interfere with sunscreen performance. It can be paired with most common actives like vitamin C, niacinamide or retinoids without stability problems.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 vary from person to person. The following list covers possible but uncommon issues. When the ingredient is formulated correctly most users will have none of these problems.
- Transient flushing or warmth in very sensitive skin
- Mild stinging if applied to freshly exfoliated or broken skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in people already allergic to hyaluronic acid or histidine derivatives
- Increased stickiness if used in high concentrations which may feel uncomfortable in humid climates
If you notice irritation, redness or any unexpected reaction stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5
Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 is a large water-soluble polymer that sits on the surface rather than soaking into oil glands so it cannot clog pores or feed acne-causing bacteria. It has no fatty acids or waxy residues that typically raise comedogenicity scores therefore it earns a solid zero.
This makes the ingredient suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts.
Because it forms a breathable film it can even help reduce friction from masks or makeup which may indirectly lower the risk of mechanical pimples in some users.
Summary
Sodium Histidyl Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 works mainly as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent. Its crosslinked hyaluronic acid backbone pulls in moisture while the added histidine and three-dimensional network hold that water at the surface creating a flexible protective film that leaves skin plump smooth and comfortable.
The ingredient is gaining traction in newer hydrating gels and sheet masks but is still less common than standard hyaluronic acid. Brands that focus on next-gen actives and minimalist formulas are beginning to spotlight it for its long-lasting hydration and gentle profile.
Current safety data shows a very low risk of irritation or allergy making it appropriate for most skin types including sensitive and acne-prone. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a quick patch test before regular use just to be on the safe side.