Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate?

Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate is a modified form of cyclodextrin, a ring-shaped sugar molecule that comes from plant starch such as corn or potatoes. Chemists first add small hydroxypropyl groups to the cyclodextrin to boost its water-loving nature, then react it with octenylsuccinic anhydride to give the ring a tiny oil-friendly tail. Finally, the mix is neutralized with a little sodium to turn it into a stable salt. This balanced structure allows it to grab both water and oil, making it useful in many beauty formulas.

Cyclodextrins have been studied since the early 1900s for their knack for trapping unwanted smells and protecting fragile ingredients. Over the past few decades, researchers noticed these same skills could improve the feel and shelf life of creams and sprays. The octenylsuccinate version arrived as brands looked for plant-based helpers that could do several jobs at once without heavy silicones or alcohol.

Today you will spot Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate in face masks, daily moisturizers, lightweight serums, deodorant sticks, setting sprays, micellar cleansers and even tinted foundations. Its multitasking nature lets formulators cut back on extra stabilizers and fragrance-masking agents, leading to simpler labels and smoother textures.

Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient offers several handy functions that improve both product performance and user experience.

  • Deodorant – Its ring-shaped core can trap odor-causing molecules, helping keep skin and hair smelling fresh without heavy perfumes
  • Emulsion stabilising – By hugging both water and oil, it prevents creams and lotions from separating, so the formula stays silky and uniform from the first pump to the last
  • Humectant – It attracts and holds onto moisture, adding a light boost of hydration that can make skin feel soft and supple
  • Cleansing – The ingredient can lift away excess oil and impurities, making it a gentle helper in micellar waters or rinse-off masks

Who Can Use Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate

Because this ingredient is lightweight, non greasy and water loving, it tends to suit every skin type including oily, combination, dry or sensitive skin. It does not clog pores and has no exfoliating acids or harsh solvents that could upset delicate barriers. People with extremely reactive skin should still check the full product formula for other triggers, but the ingredient itself is considered gentle.

It is made from plant starch and the processing agents are synthetic rather than animal derived, so products that rely on it can be formulated to meet vegan and vegetarian standards. Since it dissolves in water and leaves no film it is also friendly for those following halal or kosher lifestyles, though certification rests with the finished product.

Current safety data shows no link between topical use and pregnancy related concerns. That said this is not medical advice: anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should run all skincare products past a doctor before use just to be on the safe side.

Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and will not replace the need for sunscreen. It is also fragrance free and alcohol free which lowers the chance of stinging around the eyes.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well formulated product.

  • Mild redness or warmth, especially on very sensitive skin
  • Temporary dryness if the overall formula lacks added emollients
  • Itching or small bumps in those with a rare allergy to corn or potato derived sugars
  • Watery eyes or slight sting when used in sprays applied too close to the eye area
  • Interaction with highly charged surfactants, which can increase irritation potential for some users

If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0. Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate is highly water soluble and has a large molecular size, so it sits on skin’s surface without sinking into pores or mixing with sebum. Its primary role is to stabilize formulas rather than provide heavy emollience, which keeps it from forming the kind of greasy film that can trap dead cells and create blockages. For these reasons it is considered non comedogenic and is suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts. As always, the overall pore friendliness of a product depends on every ingredient in the recipe, but this particular helper is not a clogging culprit.

Summary

Sodium Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Octenylsuccinate acts as a deodorant molecule catcher, an emulsion stabilizer that keeps water and oil happily blended, a light humectant that draws in moisture, and a gentle cleansing aid that lifts away surface impurities. It does all this thanks to its unique ring shaped sugar core that traps odor molecules, its water loving exterior that grabs moisture, and its small oil friendly tail that anchors it at the water oil interface.

You will not see it headlining every beauty launch, but formulators who want minimalist labels and plant derived multitaskers are picking it up more often, especially in new wave deodorants, micellar waters and breathable foundations.

Current safety data rates it as low risk with little chance of irritation or pore blockage. Still, skin can be unpredictable, so it is wise to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before applying it all over.

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