Sodium Stearoyl Pea Protein: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sodium Stearoyl Pea Protein?

Sodium stearoyl pea protein is a plant-derived ingredient made by joining fragments of pea protein with a small amount of fatty acid then neutralizing the mixture with sodium to create a water-dispersible powder. The peas supply amino acids that are naturally compatible with skin and hair, while the attached fatty acid gives the molecule gentle surfactant and conditioning traits. Interest in plant proteins grew in the early 2000s as brands searched for vegan, sustainable alternatives to animal keratin and synthetic detergents. Chemists found that acylating (fatty-acid-grafting) hydrolyzed pea protein created a versatile ingredient that foams lightly, conditions and stabilizes emulsions. Manufacturing starts with non-GMO yellow peas that are cleaned, milled and processed to isolate the protein. The protein is then hydrolyzed into smaller peptides, reacted with a fatty acid such as stearic or caprylic acid and finally neutralized with sodium carbonate to form the salt. You will spot sodium stearoyl pea protein in sulfate-free shampoos, everyday cleansers, cream and gel moisturizers, sheet masks, leave-in conditioners, styling creams, lightweight serums and even some deodorants where extra gentleness and a silky feel are desired.

Sodium Stearoyl Pea Protein’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators like this multitasking ingredient because it brings several performance perks in both skin and hair care products.

  • Cleansing: The fatty acid part of the molecule gives it mild surfactant properties that help lift away dirt oil and buildup without stripping the skin or hair.
  • Hair Conditioning: The protein fragments attach to the hair surface forming a light film that smooths cuticles boosts softness and helps reduce frizz. It can also enhance the feel of sulfate-free shampoos leaving hair easier to detangle.
  • Skin Conditioning: On skin the ingredient’s peptides attract water while the fatty acid tail reinforces the lipid layer. This duo helps maintain moisture increases suppleness and can give formulas a soft velvety finish.

Who Can Use Sodium Stearoyl Pea Protein

This ingredient is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin because it cleanses without harsh stripping and leaves behind a soft conditioning film. Sensitive skin can usually tolerate it as the protein fragments are naturally compatible with the skin barrier yet those with a documented legume or pea allergy should be cautious.

Sodium stearoyl pea protein is fully plant derived and contains no animal by-products so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. It also fits well with cruelty-free routines since the peas are sourced from non-GMO crops and the production process does not rely on animal testing.

Current research shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically at levels used in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss new skincare products with a qualified health professional to be extra safe.

The molecule does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It rinses cleanly from hair and skin and is non-volatile so there are no inhalation concerns when used in finished products. Overall its mildness and plant origin make it a versatile choice for a wide range of users.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Sodium Stearoyl Pea Protein vary from person to person. The following are potential side effects that could occur even though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Allergic reaction such as redness itching or hives in individuals with sensitivity to peas or other legumes
  • Mild skin irritation if applied to already compromised or broken skin
  • Eye stinging if a cleanser or shampoo containing the ingredient gets into the eyes before rinsing
  • Product buildup on very fine or low-porosity hair which can lead to a weighed-down feel between washes

If any discomfort swelling or persistent irritation occurs stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms do not quickly subside.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Sodium stearoyl pea protein is water dispersible and forms a very light film that rinses away easily so it is unlikely to block pores. The attached fatty acid is present in a salt form that stays mostly on the surface and is removed with normal cleansing which keeps the chance of clogging low. This makes the ingredient generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin though individual responses can vary. Because it is a protein derivative it does not behave like heavy plant oils often blamed for congestion.

No notable data suggest that it promotes comedone formation even when used in leave-on moisturizers or hairline products, yet people who experience persistent buildup from any conditioning agents might still prefer to use it in rinse-off formulas.

Summary

Sodium stearoyl pea protein cleanses, conditions skin, conditions hair and helps stabilize emulsions. It achieves this by combining pea-derived peptides that bind water and hair keratin with a small fatty acid tail that loosens dirt and improves slip, creating mild foam and a soft after-feel.

The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity in newer sulfate-free shampoos and gentle facial cleansers, but it has not hit the mainstream the way coconut-based surfactants have. Formulators who seek vegan or hypoallergenic protein sources appreciate its versatility so its presence is steadily growing.

Topical use is considered very safe with a low risk of irritation aside from rare pea allergies. Like any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it so you can confirm personal tolerance before applying it more widely.

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