What Is Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein?
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is a plant-based ingredient made by taking wheat protein, breaking it down into smaller pieces called peptides, then joining those peptides with a fatty acid known as undecylenic acid. The finished material is neutralized with sodium or triethanolamine to form a water-soluble salt that blends easily into lotions, serums and washes.
Wheat proteins have been used in beauty products since the 1960s because their small peptides can cling to skin and hair, giving a smooth feel. Chemists later discovered that linking the peptides with a fatty acid improves their ability to clean while still keeping the gentle, conditioning touch people expect from wheat extracts. This led to the creation of undecylenoyl-modified wheat protein in the late 1990s, first appearing in salon shampoos and eventually in everyday personal care lines.
The production process starts with food-grade wheat gluten. Enzymes or gentle acids chop the large protein into smaller fragments. Undecylenic acid, which is sourced from castor oil, is then attached to some of the peptide chains. Finally the mixture is reacted with either sodium hydroxide or triethanolamine, producing a clear liquid that can be added directly to cosmetic formulas.
You will most often see Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein in shampoos, conditioners, body washes, facial cleansers, leave-in hair treatments, lightweight moisturizers and sheet masks where brands want a mild cleanser that also leaves skin or hair feeling soft.
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient offers several benefits in personal care products
- Cleansing: The undecylenoyl group gives the peptide a soap-like edge that helps lift away oil and dirt without harsh surfactants so formulas feel mild yet effective
- Hair conditioning: The wheat-derived peptides form a thin film along the hair shaft which smooths the cuticle reduces static and adds light body making hair easier to comb and style
- Skin conditioning: On skin the same peptide film holds moisture on the surface leaving a soft silky finish and helping the skin look more supple
Who Can Use Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is generally well tolerated by all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive because its peptide film moisturizes without clogging pores and its cleansing action is mild. Those with extremely reactive or compromised skin should still monitor how their skin feels since any surfactant-like material can occasionally disturb an already weakened barrier.
The ingredient is plant derived and contains no animal by-products so it meets vegan and vegetarian standards. The undecylenic acid used comes from castor oil and the wheat protein is sourced from grain only.
Pregnant and breastfeeding users can typically use products containing this ingredient because there is no evidence it penetrates deeply or acts hormonally. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should confirm product choices with a healthcare professional to be safe.
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein does not make skin more sensitive to the sun so no extra sun precautions are required beyond daily sunscreen. Individuals with a diagnosed wheat or gluten allergy should be aware that even hydrolyzed fragments could in rare cases trigger a contact reaction on broken skin though the risk is considered low.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein vary from person to person. The points below outline possible issues but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels and formulated correctly.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging especially on very sensitive or compromised skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with wheat or gluten sensitivity
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally enters the eyes
- Scalp dryness or flaking when used in high concentrations in shampoos
If any discomfort or adverse effect occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is mainly water soluble and forms a light, breathable film that rinses cleanly, so it is very unlikely to block pores. The undecylenoyl portion adds mild surfactant properties without a heavy oily residue, keeping the rating low.
Overall this ingredient is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin when used in typical cosmetic concentrations.
Because it is most often found in rinse-off products the already low risk of pore clogging drops even further.
Summary
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein acts as a gentle cleanser, a lightweight hair conditioner and a surface skin conditioner. The wheat-derived peptides cling to hair and skin, smoothing cuticles and holding water at the surface while the undecylenoyl group lifts away oil and dirt without stripping.
It enjoys steady use in salon and drugstore shampoos, body washes and light lotions, though it is not as ubiquitous as classic surfactants or silicones. Brands that focus on plant-based or sensitive-skin formulas favor it for its balance of mild cleansing and conditioning.
Current safety data and decades of consumer experience show a low risk of irritation or allergy except in rare cases of wheat sensitivity. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a new product first to be on the safe side, especially if you have very sensitive or allergy-prone skin.