What Is Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate?
Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate is a gentle surfactant derived from two naturally occurring building blocks: glutamic acid, an amino acid found in plants like sugar beets, and undecylenic acid, a fatty acid originally sourced from castor oil. When these components are combined and neutralized with sodium, they form a mild cleansing agent that carries both water-loving and oil-loving parts, making it effective at lifting dirt and oil without stripping the skin or hair.
The ingredient gained attention in the 1990s as formulators looked for alternatives to harsher sulfates. Its plant-based origin aligned with the growing demand for milder, more sustainable surfactants. Commercial production involves fermenting sugars to obtain glutamic acid, isolating undecylenic acid from castor oil, coupling them through an acylation reaction then neutralizing the resulting acid with sodium hydroxide to create the final salt.
Because of its mildness and skin-friendly pH, Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate appears in a wide range of rinse-off and leave-on products. You will often find it in facial cleansers, low-foam shampoos, micellar waters, creamy body washes, moisturizing sheet masks, baby care formulas and even sulfate-free toothpastes. In hair care it is valued for leaving strands soft and easy to detangle, while in skin care it supports a balanced acid mantle and a smooth after-feel.
Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile ingredient brings several advantages to modern formulations:
- Cleansing: Its mild surfactant action removes excess oil, makeup and environmental debris while maintaining the skin’s natural moisture balance, which reduces the tight or squeaky sensation that stronger detergents can cause.
- Hair conditioning: The fatty acid portion deposits a light lipid film on the hair shaft, improving slip, reducing frizz and making combing easier, especially in sulfate-free shampoos or co-wash products.
- Skin conditioning: By supporting the skin’s natural acidic pH and leaving behind a soft silky film, it helps maintain barrier function and leaves skin feeling smooth and hydrated after cleansing.
Who Can Use Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate
Thanks to its mildness Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate is generally well suited to normal, oily, dry and combination skin as well as sensitive or mature complexions. The ingredient is unlikely to clog pores or disturb the skin’s acid mantle so it can be helpful for acne-prone users too. Those with a known allergy to amino acid–based surfactants or with severely compromised skin barriers should proceed cautiously and look for lower concentrations or alternative cleansers.
The compound is synthesized from plant sources and contains no animal derived material which makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. It is also readily biodegradable, a plus for consumers who prioritize eco friendly choices.
Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding because the molecule acts mainly on the surface of skin and hair with negligible systemic absorption. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should still clear any new personal care product with their physician to be safe.
Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daily sun protection is still advised as part of a healthy routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate can vary. The effects listed below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels in a well formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation redness or a transient stinging sensation, usually when used in very high concentrations or on already inflamed skin
- Eye stinging temporary discomfort if the cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
- Allergic contact dermatitis a rare immune response that may present as itching rash or swelling
- Excessive dryness in very sensitive users who cleanse frequently or combine multiple drying actives
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate is water soluble and designed to rinse clean so it leaves virtually no residue that could block follicles. Its molecular structure is larger and more polar than oils known for clogging pores which keeps it from settling inside sebaceous glands. Because it also supports the skin’s natural pH, it does not disturb barrier function in a way that triggers excess sebum production. For these reasons it earns a low score of 1.
Suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts.
Comedogenicity can still depend on the overall formula; very rich creams using this surfactant in a micro-emulsion could feel heavier than a foaming cleanser that rinses away in seconds.
Summary
Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate works as a mild cleanser, skin conditioner and hair conditioner. Its amphiphilic structure attracts oil and water allowing it to lift grime while the fatty acid tail leaves a light conditioning film that softens skin and hair. At a skin friendly pH it helps maintain the acid mantle which supports barrier health.
The ingredient is popular in sulfate-free facial washes, low foam shampoos and micellar waters though it is still less common than workhorses like cocamidopropyl betaine. Formulators who focus on gentle or eco conscious lines reach for it to boost mildness and marketing appeal.
Current data show it is safe for routine use with a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new cosmetic, doing a quick patch test helps rule out personal sensitivities.