Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer?

Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer is a modified form of soluble collagen, the structural protein best known for giving skin its firmness and elasticity. In this ingredient the collagen molecules are gently crosslinked with N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-N’-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride, a carbodiimide reagent that helps tie the protein strands together without adding foreign fragments. Most cosmetic grade collagen comes from fish skin or bovine hide; after purification the collagen is dissolved, adjusted to the proper pH and temperature, then exposed to the carbodiimide so select bonds form between protein chains. The result is a water-soluble network that is more resistant to breakdown yet still feels light and silky on skin.

Collagen itself has been used in creams and masks since the 1970s because of its hydrating feel, but it was prone to breaking apart in jars. Crosslinking solved that issue, so during the early 2000s suppliers began offering this “crosspolymer” version to formulators who wanted longer shelf life and a more luxurious texture. Today you will spot Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer in hydrating sheet masks, anti-aging serums, rich moisturizers, soothing after-sun gels, eye creams, primers and leave-on night treatments where a soft, cushiony skin feel is desired.

Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare formulas this ingredient is valued mainly for one key role.

Emollient: Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer spreads easily across the skin surface, filling in tiny gaps between dead cells so the complexion feels softer and looks smoother. By reinforcing the skin’s surface it also helps slow down water loss, which can give a plumper, more comfortable appearance especially in dry or mature skin.

Who Can Use Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer

This silky emollient suits most skin types, including normal, dry, combination and even sensitive skin because it is generally non irritating and helps hold moisture against the surface. Oily or very acne-prone complexions can also tolerate it, though those who break out easily may prefer lighter gel formulas that contain lower levels of rich proteins.

The collagen used is typically sourced from fish or bovine hide, so the ingredient is not considered vegan or vegetarian friendly. Brands may offer a plant derived alternative but unless a product is clearly labeled as such consumers following a vegan or vegetarian lifestyle should assume animal origin.

Pregnant and breastfeeding individuals are not known to face special risks when using topical Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should clear all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Regular sunscreen use is still recommended as part of a daily routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The following are potential side effects that could occur, though they are not expected for the average user when the ingredient is properly formulated and preserved.

  • Allergic reaction in individuals sensitive to fish or bovine proteins
  • Mild redness or irritation on very reactive skin
  • Itching or tingling if applied to broken or compromised skin
  • Temporary congestion or small blemishes in users extremely prone to clogged pores

If any unsettling reaction develops stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5 – Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer is a large, water-soluble protein that sits on the surface rather than seeping deep into pores, so it has a very low likelihood of trapping oil or dead cells. It is therefore generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, especially when used in lightweight formulas. Very sensitive or highly oily complexions could still notice minor congestion if the overall product is heavy, but the ingredient itself is not considered a big pore-clogging risk.

Because its source is protein based it can sometimes be included in richer creams that rely on occlusive agents; in those cases the finished product’s texture, not the collagen, is more likely to influence breakouts.

Summary

Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer is a silky emollient that smooths the skin surface and helps reduce water loss by filling microscopic gaps between cells. The gentle crosslinking step keeps the protein intact so it remains stable in jars and spreads easily for a cushioned finish.

It appears in a range of moisturizers, serums and masks but is less common than plant oils or hyaluronic acid, partly due to its animal origin and higher cost. Where included, it often features in premium or spa-style formulations aimed at delivering a soft touch and quick boost of surface hydration.

Topically applied Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer is considered safe for most users with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a brief patch test before full use to make sure your skin agrees with it.

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