Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract?

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract comes from the toothache plant, Spilanthes acmella, a small flowering herb in the aster family. The plant is rich in spilanthol, a natural alkamide known for its tingling effect, along with minor amounts of flavonoids and other antioxidants. Long before it appeared in skin care it was chewed in South America and Asia to soothe tooth and gum discomfort. When formulators noticed its ability to calm surface irritation and keep microbes in check, the extract found its way into modern beauty products.

To create the extract, the fresh or dried flowers, leaves and stems are milled then soaked in a solvent such as water, glycerin or a mix of plant-friendly alcohols. After several hours the liquid is pressed out, filtered and concentrated, leaving a clear to amber solution that can be easily blended into creams and serums.

You will often see Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract in anti-aging serums, firming eye creams, hydrating masks, blemish treatments, natural deodorants and lightweight moisturizers that target stressed or breakout-prone skin.

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This botanical mainly serves an antimicrobial role. By limiting the growth of bacteria and fungi it helps keep a formula fresher for longer, reducing the need for heavier preservatives. On the skin its antimicrobial action can also support a clearer complexion by minimizing the microbes that contribute to breakouts and surface irritation, making it useful in products designed for oily or combination skin.

Who Can Use Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

This extract is generally suitable for all skin types, including dry, oily and combination skin. Its light texture and antimicrobial edge make it especially helpful for those prone to breakouts or surface irritation. Very sensitive skin may notice a mild tingling sensation due to the natural compound spilanthol, but that feeling typically fades quickly.

The ingredient is plant derived and no animals are involved in its production so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.

Current research shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied to intact skin in standard cosmetic strengths. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new products to a routine.

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract does not increase photosensitivity and can be used day or night without extra sun precautions beyond a good sunscreen habit.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, yet most users will not encounter them when using a well-formulated product.

  • Mild tingling or warming sensation after application
  • Temporary redness, especially on very sensitive skin
  • Dry or tight feeling if used in a high concentration without a moisturizing base
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific plant allergy
  • Stinging when layered with other strong actives like retinoids or acids

If any discomfort, persistent redness or swelling occurs discontinue use and consult a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 (very low likelihood of clogging pores)

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a light fluid containing mainly small bioactive molecules like spilanthol rather than heavy oils or waxes that can block pores. It is typically used at low concentrations, absorbs quickly and offers antimicrobial benefits that actually curb acne-related bacteria. All of this keeps its pore-clogging potential minimal.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Keep in mind that overall formula matters; if the extract is blended with rich butters or thick occlusives the finished product could still trigger congestion.

Summary

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract serves mainly as an antimicrobial booster, helping products stay fresh and supporting a clearer calmer complexion. It achieves this by limiting bacterial and fungal growth while delivering a mild soothing tingle.

The extract enjoys modest popularity among clean beauty and indie brands but is not yet a mainstay in every skin care aisle.

Safety data shows it is well tolerated at normal use levels with only occasional reports of mild irritation or allergy. As with any new ingredient, do a quick patch test first to be safe.

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