What Is Stemone?
Stemone is an aroma molecule created to mimic the crisp scent of crushed green leaves. It was first developed by the Swiss flavour and fragrance house Givaudan, although other suppliers now offer generic grades under different trade names.
This ingredient is produced through laboratory synthesis that starts from small petro- or bio-based building blocks, leading to a compact nitrogen-containing structure. The process is considered straightforward by industry standards, which helps keep production consistent from batch to batch.
At room temperature Stemone appears as a clear mobile liquid, almost water-like in look yet noticeably oily to the touch. A fresh bottle stored well should remain in prime condition for around two years before its odour starts to dull.
Perfumers reach for Stemone whenever they want to add a realistic leafy twist to compositions featuring fig, tomato leaf, grapefruit or modern floral accords. It is not rare, but it is also not among the cheapest materials on the shelf. Most creatives classify it as mid-priced, reflecting both its impact and the fact it is still protected by strong brand recognition.
Because it packs plenty of olfactive punch in tiny amounts, usage levels seldom exceed a few percent of the finished formula. This efficiency keeps overall cost reasonable while giving blends a bright natural vibe.
Stemone’s Scent Description
Stemone sits firmly in the green family of fragrance materials.
On a blotter the first impression is an airy burst of just-snapped stems and dewy leaves. Within seconds a gentle sweetness rises, reminiscent of crushed fig foliage, backed by a subtle citrus nuance that hints at grapefruit zest. Unlike some harsh green notes, Stemone keeps a soft natural edge, evoking a walk through a tomato greenhouse at dawn rather than a sharp chemical bite.
In perfumery we talk about top, middle and base notes. Top notes are what you smell in the first minutes, middle notes shape the heart of the perfume and bases linger the longest. Stemone behaves like an upper-middle note. It appears quickly, stays lively for several hours and then lets the deeper ingredients take over without vanishing outright.
Projection is moderate; the material creates a fresh halo around the wearer rather than a bold trail. Longevity on skin is modest to good, echoing for four to six hours, although on a paper strip it can be detected well into the next day.
How & Where To Use Stemone
Perfumers reach for Stemone when a formula needs the scent of freshly snapped leaves. It lifts citrus openings, brightens floral hearts and gives fruity accords a garden like realism. A single drop can make a spring bouquet smell as if it still has stems attached.
Stemone often partners with galbanum, cis-3-hexenol or violet leaf to form a classic green accord. Used with fig lactone it recreates the milky sap of a fig tree. In fruity blends it sharpens blackcurrant and grapefruit so they feel juicier.
The usual dose sits between 0.1 % and 1 % of the finished perfume. For soaps and candles formulators may climb to 3 % or even 5 % because heat and wash off tame the material quickly. Trace amounts give a soft leafy accent while higher levels create a vivid tomato leaf effect that can dominate.
Concentration changes its character. At 0.05 % it feels light and dewy. At 0.5 % it shows its tomato leaf core. Above 2 % it can smell harsh, metallic and almost plastic so moderation is key.
Overuse brings two risks. First it can overpower delicate notes like rose or jasmine. Second it can push a fragrance into a niche green style that may not appeal to every customer. Always build up in small steps, smell on blotter then test on skin or fabric before locking the level.
Stemone dissolves well in ethanol, triethyl citrate and most perfume oils. Chill the stock to room temperature before weighing and use glass or stainless tools because long contact with some soft plastics can cause fogging.
A simple 10 % dilution in perfumer’s alcohol is a handy work strength. It makes pipetting easier and reduces the chance of accidental overdosing. Store the diluted sample in a dark glass vial to slow oxidation.
Safely Using Stemone
Dilution is key at every stage. Always prepare a working solution before evaluation. Avoid smelling straight from the bottle to prevent a nose shock that can dull your sense of smell for hours.
Work in a well-ventilated room or under a fume hood so any vapour drifts away quickly. Wear nitrile gloves to stop skin contact and safety glasses to protect your eyes from splashes.
Stemone is classed as harmful to aquatic life and is not readily biodegradable. Keep spills off the bench and never pour leftovers down the sink. Wipe tools with paper then place the waste in a sealed bin for chemical disposal.
Brief skin exposure to diluted Stemone is generally safe but some people may experience irritation or rare allergic reactions. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding consult a medical professional before handling any aroma chemicals.
Long sessions with high concentrations can cause headaches or dizziness. Take regular breaks, cap bottles promptly and avoid inhaling vapour directly.
Always review the latest Safety Data Sheet from your supplier before use and check it again each time you reorder in case the information has been updated. Follow the current IFRA guidelines for maximum use levels in each product type to ensure consumer safety.
How To Store & Dispose of Stemone
Stemone lasts longest when kept cool and protected from light. A dedicated fragrance fridge set around 4 °C is ideal though a cupboard in a consistently cool room works well as long as it stays away from heaters or sunny windows.
Seal every bottle with a tight-fitting polycone cap. These liners create a better vapor barrier than glass droppers which can wick liquid and let air leak inside. For working dilutions choose small vials that you can keep nearly full. The smaller the headspace the less oxygen is present to start slow oxidation that dulls the scent.
Label each container clearly with the material name, CAS number, date of opening and hazard phrases such as “Harmful to aquatic life” so anyone in the lab knows what they are handling at a glance.
For disposal never rinse Stemone into drains. Even tiny amounts can stress water treatment systems because the molecule is not readily biodegradable. Wipe spills and pipettes with paper, seal the waste in a plastic bag then place it in a chemical trash container. Larger volumes should go to a licensed hazardous waste contractor or collection center. Keep empty bottles capped until they can be triple rinsed with solvent and sent to recycling according to local regulations.
Summary
Stemone is a synthetic green aroma chemical from Givaudan prized for its bright tomato leaf, fresh grass and fig-leaf facets. It sits comfortably in the top and early heart of a perfume where it modernises florals, sharpens citrus and brings garden realism to fruit accords.
Its mid-range price, solid tenacity and strong bloom in soap make it popular with both fine fragrance and functional product formulators. The flip side is a distinctive profile that can overwhelm delicate notes if overdosed and a lack of biodegradability that calls for careful waste handling.
When stored in well-sealed bottles kept cool and dark it stays in spec for roughly two years and rarely discolours finished products. Most professionals buy commercial drum lots directly from Givaudan or major distributors while hobbyists can find gram to kilo sizes from reputable resellers offering generic Stemone of comparable purity.