What Is Sucrose Pentaerucate?
Sucrose Pentaerucate is a specialty ester created by linking five molecules of erucic acid to a single sucrose molecule. Sucrose is the common table sugar sourced from sugarcane or sugar beets while erucic acid is a fatty acid naturally abundant in non GMO rapeseed and mustard seed oil. Chemists began exploring sugar-fatty acid esters in the late twentieth century as a more skin friendly and eco minded alternative to petroleum based ingredients. Through a controlled heat and vacuum process called esterification the two raw materials join to form a silky wax-like substance that is oil soluble yet gentle on skin. This versatile ingredient shows up in many leave-on and rinse-off products such as face moisturizers, night creams, cleansing balms, makeup removers, sheet masks, body lotions and even soothing after-sun gels.
Sucrose Pentaerucate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Sucrose Pentaerucate because it performs several helpful jobs at once
- Skin conditioning – coats the surface with a soft flexible film that smooths rough spots and leaves skin feeling velvety
- Emollient – replenishes lost lipids so dry or tight skin feels supple and comfortable
- Cleansing – helps dissolve makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum allowing them to rinse away without stripping
- Emulsifying – bridges oil and water phases so creams stay stable and creamy from first scoop to last use
Who Can Use Sucrose Pentaerucate
This sugar-fatty acid ester suits most skin types including normal, dry and mature thanks to its rich emollient feel. Balanced and combination skin also tend to tolerate it well. Those with very oily or easily congested skin might prefer lighter textures since the ingredient’s waxy nature can feel too heavy in high concentrations.
Sucrose Pentaerucate is sourced from plant sugar and non GMO rapeseed oil so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived substances are involved in its production.
Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at the small percentages found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider.
The molecule does not absorb UV light so it does not cause photosensitivity. It also plays well with common actives like niacinamide, vitamin C and retinoids without destabilising them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Sucrose Pentaerucate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions only and most users will not experience them when products are formulated and used correctly.
- Mild irritation or redness in very sensitive skin, usually temporary
- Clogged pores or breakouts if a formula contains a high level of the ingredient and the user is acne-prone
- Contact allergy in individuals allergic to mustard or rapeseed derivatives, though this is rare
- Stinging or watering eyes if the product accidentally gets into the eye area
- Unpleasant odor or color change if the product has spoiled, which can also lead to skin discomfort
If any unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Comedogenic rating: 2 out of 5. Sucrose Pentaerucate has a waxy, lipid-rich feel that can sit on the skin surface, yet its bulky sugar-fatty acid structure keeps most of it from sinking deep into pores. In leave-on formulas at low levels it is unlikely to clog pores, but heavy balms or thick creams that rely on it as a major oil phase could contribute to congestion in some users. Overall it is usually acceptable for mildly acne-prone skin but very blemish-prone users may prefer lighter alternatives. Its rating can vary with concentration and with what other oils are blended alongside it.
Summary
Sucrose Pentaerucate is a plant-derived ester that conditions, moisturises, cleanses and emulsifies. The sucrose part attracts water while the erucic acid tails merge with skin lipids, letting it soften rough patches, dissolve makeup and hold oil-and-water mixtures together in a stable cream or balm. It pops up in niche green beauty lines and some mainstream soothing cleansers, though it is still far from a household name.
Current research and industry safety reviews class it as low risk for irritation or toxicity, with only rare allergy reports. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a product on a small area first to confirm personal tolerance, then enjoy its silky finish once skin gives the thumbs up.