What Is Sucrose Tetraisostearate?
Sucrose Tetraisostearate is a sugar and oil based ingredient created by joining sucrose (table sugar) with four units of isostearic acid, a branched fatty acid usually sourced from vegetable oils like soy or rapeseed. The result is a mild, skin friendly ester that feels silky and spreads easily.
Sugar esters first appeared in food products as low calorie emulsifiers. Around the late 1990s formulators noticed that certain versions worked just as well on skin, prompting the beauty industry to explore them as plant derived alternatives to petroleum based emollients. Sucrose Tetraisostearate rose to popularity because its branched oil side chains resist oxidation, giving products a longer shelf life.
The ingredient is made through a process called esterification, where sucrose and purified isostearic acid are heated together with a food grade catalyst. Once the reaction is complete the mix is filtered and deodorised, leaving a pale, nearly odorless liquid or soft solid.
You will most often see Sucrose Tetraisostearate in cleansing oils, makeup removing balms, moisturizing creams, sunscreens, facial masks, lipsticks and leave on anti aging treatments. Its ability to condition skin while helping oil and water mix makes it useful in both water free and water based formulas.
Sucrose Tetraisostearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient offers several perks for both the product and the user
- Skin conditioning: Leaves a soft, supple feel and helps smooth rough patches so skin looks healthier
- Emollient: Forms a light, breathable film that locks in moisture without feeling greasy which is helpful in creams, lotions and lip products
- Cleansing: Dissolves makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum making rinse off oils and balms more effective yet gentle
- Emulsifying: Helps keep oil and water mixed so formulas stay stable and creamy over time reducing the need for extra stabilizers
Who Can Use Sucrose Tetraisostearate
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Dry and mature skin appreciate its emollient feel while normal and combination skin like its light texture that does not leave a greasy film. Even sensitive skin usually finds it soothing thanks to its sugar base and lack of added fragrance. Very oily or acne prone users can still benefit although some may prefer to keep it in rinse off products rather than heavy leave ons if they worry about extra richness.
Sucrose Tetraisostearate is made from plant sourced sugar and vegetable derived fatty acids so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal derived materials are used in its production.
The molecule is too large to penetrate deeply and is not considered a reproductive hazard so it is viewed as safe for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run any skincare product past a qualified doctor to be certain it fits their individual needs.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity. You can use it day or night without extra risk of sun reaction, though daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Sucrose Tetraisostearate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well formulated product.
- Mild irritation or redness in extremely sensitive skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to sucrose esters or residual processing agents
- Temporary stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Occasional pore congestion in users already prone to heavy oil build up when used in very rich leave on formulas
If you notice any discomfort or adverse effect while using Sucrose Tetraisostearate stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
The branched shape of the isostearic acid chains plus the bulky sucrose core keeps this ester sitting on the surface rather than sliding into pores. Studies on similar sugar esters report very low comedone counts compared with straight chain plant oils and waxes, so the ingredient is considered low clogging.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use it without trouble, though very oily skin may still prefer lighter leave-on formulas.
Keep in mind that overall pore-clogging risk depends on the full recipe; pairing this ester with heavy butters or waxes can raise the richness of the final product.
Summary
Sucrose Tetraisostearate works as a skin conditioner, emollient, gentle cleanser and emulsifier. Its sugar head attracts water while the fatty tails grab onto oil, letting it soften skin, lock in moisture, lift away makeup and hold mixtures together all at once.
It is not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid yet formulators value its plant origin and stability so you will find it in an ever-growing number of cleansing balms, sunscreens and lip products.
Safety data shows a low chance of irritation or toxicity, making it a reliable choice for daily use. Even so, skin can be unpredictable so it is smart to patch test any new product containing Sucrose Tetraisostearate before fully committing.