Introduction
Pestle & Mortar may not dominate billboards yet but within beauty circles it often earns the kind of hushed respect reserved for quietly confident overachievers. The Irish brand’s chemist-led philosophy and ingredient transparency have helped it build a loyal following that swears by its fuss-free routines and skin-first formulations.
Their latest launch carries a name that could headline a Vegas residency: Superstar Retinol Night Oil. According to Pestle & Mortar, this is a beginner-friendly retinoid blend that aims to smooth fine lines and hydrate in one fell swoop thanks to fast-acting HPR wrapped in a medley of cold-pressed oils. I spent two full weeks putting that promise to the test, applying a single pump each night to see if this A-list title translates into red-carpet results and, crucially, whether it deserves a spot in your bedtime lineup.
What is Superstar Retinol Night Oil?
Superstar Retinol Night Oil is an overnight treatment, meaning it is intended to sit on skin while you sleep rather than being rinsed off like a mask or cleanser. Overnight treatments give active ingredients an extended window to work without daytime stressors such as UV exposure or makeup, which can make them a pragmatic choice for people looking to maximise results with minimal effort.
This particular formula combines a low concentration of retinoids, including the newer ingredient hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), with a blend of cold pressed and steam distilled plant oils. The aim is to deliver the smoothing and collagen boosting benefits commonly associated with vitamin A while diluting the likelihood of redness or peeling that stronger retinol products can trigger. Alongside line softening, the brand positions the oil as a multitasker that can even tone, improve clarity and help balance oil production.
Because the retinoids are suspended in lightweight botanical oils such as grape seed, jojoba and marula, the product doubles as a hydrating step in a nighttime routine. Pestle & Mortar suggests one pump applied after cleansing and toning, making it a single step that covers both treatment and moisture for those who prefer streamlined evening rituals.
Did it work?
In the name of scientific rigour (and because I secretly love an excuse to streamline my shelf), I benched my usual overnight treatment for a few days before starting Superstar. Fourteen nights felt like a fair window to judge any early wins or red flags, so I dutifully pressed one pump into clean, slightly damp skin each evening then went straight to bed like a compliant lab rat.
Night one offered the kind of instant payoff that keeps hope alive: a comfortable, glowy finish that did not feel greasy and a pleasantly quiet complexion the next morning. By night three I noticed my skin waking up a little brighter and the tiny makeup-exaggerated lines around my mouth looked less etched in. Crucially, no telltale retinol sting or peeling showed up, which was a pleasant surprise considering past flings with stronger formulas.
The midway point is usually when my forehead starts auditioning for the role of fine sandpaper, yet here it stayed smooth with only a whisper of dryness around my nostrils. A dab of ceramide cream solved that quickly. Oil control also improved ever so slightly; I was blotting my T-zone at lunch instead of mid-morning, a small victory that felt bigger than it sounds.
By day fourteen the momentum had levelled off. Those early brightness gains stuck around but did not intensify, pores looked unchanged and two stubborn hyperpigmentation spots refused to lighten. Fine lines remained softened but still visible. In short, Superstar delivered gentle consistency rather than dramatic transformation, which matches its beginner billing.
Will it earn a permanent place in my own routine? Probably not; I prefer a heftier retinoid now that my skin is well acquainted with vitamin A. Still, I can see myself recommending it to friends who are retinoid-curious yet wary of retaliation. It works, just not hard enough for my particular ambitions.
Superstar retinol night oil’s main ingredients explained
At the heart of Superstar sits hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a next-gen vitamin A derivative that arrives pre-converted so skin can use it straight away. It is considered gentler than traditional retinol yet still nudges collagen production and cell turnover, which explains the subtle line softening I saw. Remember that any vitamin A derivative can increase photosensitivity so daily SPF is non-negotiable.
The retinoid swims in a sea of lightweight, cold pressed oils. Grape seed is the primary carrier and brings a high linoleic acid profile that most skins tolerate well. Jojoba follows, mimicking natural sebum to limit moisture loss without feeling heavy. Marula and avocado add a richer cushion of oleic acid for overnight comfort; both have slightly higher comedogenic ratings so very clog-prone users may want to patch test first. (Comedogenic means an ingredient has the potential to block pores and trigger breakouts.) Pomegranate, black currant and cranberry oils round out the blend with antioxidants that help stabilise the formula and offer extra free-radical defense.
Dimethyl isosorbide appears midway down the list as a penetration enhancer. Its job is to ferry active molecules deeper and more evenly, which likely helps HPR perform despite the modest percentage. Calendula, carrot seed and tamanu contribute calming and restorative terpenes that keep irritation in check, a smart insurance policy for retinoid beginners.
No animal-derived materials hide in the INCI so the oil is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. That said, pregnancy is a different story: dermatologists generally advise avoiding topical vitamin A unless a doctor gives the green light so expectant users should park this bottle until postpartum. Fragrance fans will note that the formula is free of added perfume; any scent you detect comes purely from the natural oils.
Overall the ingredient roster reads like a gentle on-ramp to retinoids, balancing low-level actives with nurturing plant oils and skip-the-nasties simplicity. If your skin recoils at strong acids yet still craves a first taste of vitamin A this blend checks plenty of safety boxes while keeping the risk of flake city low.
What I liked/didn’t like
After two weeks of nightly use here is the quick tally of highs and lows.
What works well:
- Light veil of hydration that layers easily with other moisturisers without pilling or heaviness
- Noticeable softening of fine lines and a mild boost in next-morning brightness with zero stinging or flaking
- Oil blend feels balanced so combination skin sees a small reduction in T-zone shine while drier areas stay comfortable
What to consider:
- Results plateau after the first week so experienced retinoid users may crave a stronger percentage
- Rich carrier oils may not suit very blemish-prone or fungal-acne-sensitive skin
- Price sits in the mid-premium bracket which could feel steep for a starter formula
My final thoughts
Superstar Retinol Night Oil did exactly what it said on the tin: it gently dialled down fine lines, maintained hydration and kept irritation at bay. That makes it a worthwhile pick for anyone stepping onto the vitamin A ladder or for veterans who want an easy, no drama interval between stronger actives. If you are chasing rapid pigment fade or deeper wrinkle revision you might feel underwhelmed, but if your priority is a dependable, fuss free overnight treatment that behaves, Superstar delivers a respectable 7/10 showing.
Would I recommend it to a friend? Yes, with context. I would happily steer a retinol newcomer or someone with reactive skin its way, yet I would also add that once you graduate to stronger percentages you may outgrow the formula. Personally, I enjoyed the two week run but miss the punchier results I get from higher strength retinoids, so I will pass my half finished bottle to a retinoid rookie in my circle.
If you are browsing for alternatives, a few tried and tested options come to mind. Nocturnal Revive Cream by Deascal is an excellent all-rounder one-and-done night cream that somehow satisfies dry and oily zones alike yet remains sensibly priced. For a serum texture with a bit more bite, Renewing Overnight Serum by The Elements blends low grade acids with encapsulated retinol and has never sent my skin into tantrum mode. Those who prefer a cushiony oil format similar to Superstar could look at Overnight Retinol Oil by Pixi which pairs retinol with jasmine and avocado for extra comfort. Finally, Midnight Ritual Retinol Renewal Serum by Summer Fridays offers a silky lotion feel and a slightly higher retinoid concentration while keeping fragrance minimal.
Before you slather anything new on your face, a quick reminder from your resident over protective parent: patch test behind your ear or along the jaw for a couple of nights first. Consistency is key, so any glow you gain will slowly fade if you abandon ship. Stick with SPF in the daytime, listen to your skin and enjoy the quiet progress.