What Is Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate?
Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate is a mouthful of a name for a fairly simple ingredient: the triethanolamine (TEA) salt of phosphoric acid that has been joined with synthetic fatty alcohols containing 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Those numbers describe the length of the “tail” on each alcohol molecule, something that influences how the ingredient behaves in water and oil. The fatty alcohol portion is usually made from petrochemical sources or coconut-derived feedstocks, then reacted with phosphoric acid to form a phosphate ester. Finally, triethanolamine neutralizes the acid, turning it into a salt that is water soluble yet still attracted to oils. This balance is what makes it useful in cosmetics.
The cosmetic industry began experimenting with phosphate esters in the 1960s as gentler alternatives to traditional soaps. Over time formulators noticed that pairing these esters with TEA produced surfactants that cleaned well without the harshness often linked to sulfates. Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate emerged from that research and has since secured a place in a variety of rinse-off and leave-on products.
You will most often find this ingredient in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, body washes, mild shampoos, exfoliating scrubs and some cream or gel masks. Because it can help stabilize emulsions, a small percentage may also appear in lightweight lotions or serums where a gentle cleansing touch is desired, such as overnight resurfacing treatments and acne-prone moisturizers.
Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Although it serves primarily one purpose, that purpose is important for creating effective yet gentle skin and hair care formulas.
Cleansing: Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate acts as a surfactant, meaning it lowers the surface tension between water and oils so dirt, sweat and makeup can be lifted away and rinsed off. Because its fatty tail is relatively short and its phosphate head is less irritating than sulfate groups, it offers a mild cleansing action that leaves skin feeling comfortable instead of stripped. It can also help other surfactants foam better at lower concentrations, allowing formulators to craft gentle cleansers that still feel rich and effective.
Who Can Use Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate
This ingredient is gentle enough for nearly every skin type. Normal, oily and combination skin generally tolerate it well since it lifts excess sebum without leaving a squeaky-clean feel. Sensitive skin often finds it less irritating than sulfate-based cleansers thanks to its milder phosphate group. Very dry or barrier-compromised skin may want to pair it with a richer moisturizer because any surfactant can increase water loss if overused.
Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate is typically produced from plant or petrochemical feedstocks, not animal sources, and it is synthesized in a lab setting. That makes it acceptable for most vegan and vegetarian lifestyles, though anyone strictly avoiding animal testing should verify the finished product’s cruelty-free status.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel considers this material safe for topical use at the concentrations seen in personal care products, and there is no evidence it penetrates deeply or disrupts hormones. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals can generally use products containing it, but this is not medical advice and it is always best to discuss any skincare routine with a healthcare provider when expecting or nursing.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not classified as photosensitizing. It is also odorless and dye-free, making it less likely to interfere with fragranced or color-sensitive formulations.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate differ from person to person. The points below outline possible but uncommon side effects. When used at standard cosmetic levels most users experience none of these issues.
- Mild irritation – very sensitive skin may perceive a brief tingling or redness after prolonged contact
- Dryness or tightness – over-cleansing can strip lipids leading to a temporary dry feeling especially on already dry skin
- Eye stinging – if a cleanser containing the ingredient gets into the eyes it can cause short-lived discomfort
- Contact allergy – rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been reported with phosphate esters resulting in itching or small red bumps
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate is a water-soluble surfactant with a relatively small fatty chain that rinses away cleanly, so it has very little tendency to stay on skin or block pores. Because it functions mainly in wash-off products and is present at low levels in leave-on formulas, the risk of pore clogging is minimal.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
As with most cleansing agents, any comedogenic concern usually comes from the overall product formula rather than this ingredient itself.
Summary
Tea-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate is primarily a mild cleansing agent that lifts oil, dirt and makeup by lowering the surface tension between water and sebum. Its phosphate head makes it gentler than sulfates while its medium-length fatty tail gives it enough affinity for oils to cleanse effectively. The ingredient can also boost foam and help stabilize emulsions.
It is not the most famous surfactant on the market but formulators appreciate it for balancing mildness and efficacy, so it turns up in an increasing number of facial cleansers, micellar waters and lightweight lotions.
Safety reviews show it is non-sensitizing for most users at typical concentrations and it does not penetrate deeply or disturb hormones. Still, skin can react unpredictably so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains it.