What Is Tea-Diricinoleate?
Tea-Diricinoleate is a cosmetic ingredient derived from ricinoleic acid, a fatty acid found in castor oil. Chemically described as 9-octadecenoic acid, 12-hydroxy-, [2-hydroxyethyl)imino]di-2,1-ethanediyl ester, it is created by reacting castor oil derivatives with triethanolamine. This reaction yields a soft, hydrophobic ester that blends smoothly into oil and water emulsions.
The beauty industry first explored castor oil derivatives in the mid-20th century as safer, plant-based options to replace mineral oils. Over time formulators noticed that the modified esters formed flexible films on skin and delivered long-lasting moisture. These qualities led to the adoption of Tea-Diricinoleate in a range of personal care products.
Today you will most often find Tea-Diricinoleate in moisturizers, overnight masks, hand creams, hair styling balms and anti-aging serums. Its creamy texture and excellent spreadability help brands create rich yet elegant formulas without a greasy after-feel.
Tea-Diricinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulations Tea-Diricinoleate serves several roles that enhance both product performance and sensory appeal
- Film forming: It lays down a breathable layer on skin or hair that locks in moisture, boosts gloss and protects against environmental stress
- Skin conditioning: The ingredient softens rough patches, smooths texture and can impart a supple feel that lasts for hours
- Emollient: Its fatty acid backbone fills gaps between skin cells to reduce transepidermal water loss, leaving the surface comfortable and hydrated
Who Can Use Tea-Diricinoleate
Tea-Diricinoleate is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Dry, mature or sensitive skin often benefits from its moisture sealing properties, while normal and combination skin appreciate the soft, non-greasy finish it provides. Very oily or acne-prone complexions may find the ingredient a bit too rich because the protective film it forms can sometimes trap excess sebum.
The ingredient is produced from castor oil, a plant source, and combined with the synthetic agent triethanolamine, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Tea-Diricinoleate is used topically. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products, just to be safe.
Tea-Diricinoleate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Tea-Diricinoleate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions, yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation – redness, itching or a stinging sensation in individuals with very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare cases of rash or swelling if a person is allergic to castor oil derivatives
- Clogged pores or breakouts – possible in oily or acne-prone skin due to the occlusive film it creates
- Eye irritation – watering or discomfort if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Interaction with heavy occlusives – layering multiple film-forming ingredients can sometimes feel suffocating or lead to congestion in the skin
If any negative reaction occurs stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 out of 5. Tea-Diricinoleate is a fatty ester that forms a light occlusive film which can trap some sebum, yet its molecular size and partial water affinity keep it from being a heavy pore blocker. Most users with balanced or dry skin will not notice congestion, but those who are very oily or already dealing with breakouts might see an uptick in clogged pores if the formula is rich or layered with other occlusives. In rinse-off products the risk is even lower.
Overall it can be suitable for acne-prone skin when used in low to moderate amounts within a lightweight formula, but caution is advised for very oily complexions.
Summary
Tea-Diricinoleate acts as a film former, skin-conditioning agent and emollient. Its castor-oil-derived fatty backbone smooths over the skin surface, sealing in moisture while leaving a soft, supple finish. By filling tiny gaps between cells it reduces water loss and improves texture, and the breathable film adds a subtle protective barrier against daily stress.
The ingredient enjoys steady but niche popularity, appearing more often in richer creams and masks than in mainstream lightweight gels. formulators appreciate its plant origin and pleasant slip though it has not reached the buzz level of newer trendy actives.
Current data and decades of cosmetic use point to a high safety profile with minimal reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a small patch test before full application, especially if your skin is sensitive or prone to breakouts.