What Is Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate?
Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate is a surfactant made by joining plant sourced fatty acids such as lauric and myristic acid with the amino acid aspartic acid, then neutralizing the result with triethanolamine. The process creates a salt that is water soluble yet still carries the mild, skin friendly character of amino acids. Amino acid based surfactants like this one first gained traction in the 1990s as brands looked for gentler substitutes for sulfates. Today the ingredient is commonly produced through a controlled condensation reaction followed by purification steps that remove unwanted by-products, leaving a mild, biodegradable powder or liquid that formulators can easily blend into water based systems.
Because it foams well while staying gentle, Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate shows up in sulfate free facial cleansers, micellar waters, body washes, shampoos, baby care, hand soaps and 2-in-1 conditioning cleansers. Its conditioning touch also makes it a useful secondary surfactant in hair masks and co-wash formulas where softness and slip are important.
Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In personal care formulas this multi-tasking ingredient mainly brings two helpful actions:
- Cleansing – Dissolves dirt, excess oil and product buildup while producing a creamy, low irritation foam. It leaves skin and hair feeling fresh without the tightness caused by harsher detergents
- Hair Conditioning – Deposits a light film that smooths the cuticle which can boost shine, reduce static and make detangling easier. This lets formulators create one-step cleansing conditioners or shampoos that feel caring rather than stripping
Who Can Use Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate
This amino acid based cleanser is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, oily, combination, sensitive and mature skin because it lifts grime without stripping natural moisture. Exceptionally reactive skin may still tingle if the finished product contains high fragrance or other aggressive additives but the surfactant itself is considered mild.
Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate is usually produced from plant fatty acids and fermented or bio-synthesized aspartic acid so it is suitable for vegetarians and vegans provided the final formula contains no animal derived co-ingredients.
Current safety data shows no special risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when this ingredient is used topically and rinsed away as in cleansers. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should check with a qualified doctor before starting any new personal care routine just to be safe.
The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Its mild nature also makes it a common choice in baby washes and colored hair shampoos where a low irritation profile is crucial.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that could occur with any surfactant though they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at standard levels in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging, especially on highly reactive skin
- Eye irritation if the cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
- Dryness or tightness when used in very high concentrations or with overly hot water
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to triethanolamine or fatty acid derivatives
If you notice persistent discomfort or any of the effects listed above stop use and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low)
This ingredient is a fully water-soluble amino acid surfactant that rinses away cleanly so it leaves almost no residue that could clog pores. Although it is built from lauric and myristic acids, converting them into a salt dramatically lowers the oily character that normally raises comedogenic risk. As a result products that use Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate are generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Because the molecule is usually used in wash-off formats (cleansers, shampoos) any minimal film it deposits is thin and conditioned to be non-occlusive which keeps pore congestion unlikely.
Summary
Tea-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate serves as a mild cleanser and light hair conditioner. Its amino acid backbone attracts water while its fatty acid tails grab onto oil meaning it can lift dirt and sebum then rinse them away in a soft foam. At the same time a small portion of the molecule stays behind to smooth the hair cuticle and leave skin feeling conditioned not stripped.
It enjoys moderate popularity in modern sulfate-free face washes, micellar waters and gentle shampoos where brands want a greener low-irritation alternative to traditional detergents though it is still less common than big-name surfactants like coco-betaines.
Current research and decades of rinse-off use show it to be very safe for most people with low irritation potential and minimal comedogenicity. Even so every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this ingredient.